i kno this has been done a thousand times cause i have just read hundreds of post about people sayin nar dont do it its sh|t and a waste of time in a search. but still doin it cause i want a more power over the na motor and cant afford the extra for the 25det. was wonderin where a good place on the coast to buy a good rb20 half cut from, cause all the links i found from the search are too old and dont work. i kno i have to up grade diff cause i have drum brakes and have to get disc 2 disc and that 650+ wit lsd, and front brakes how much is that??, im keepin my box till it blows then just gettin a manulised auto or something. is there anything else i need wat i have so far is engine any where from 700-2000 (seen alot for around a 1000) new diff wit lsd 650+ front brake up grade price usure wiring for the engine 450 piping for cooler 400 pull out old engine im doin puttin in new engine im doin dont kno a hole lot about cars wat other major mods do i have to do to make this happen

Fu(k my bad why did i put this in non-turbo. lol can someone move this for me or can i do it

sorry poeple can a mod move it to turbo section cause so cant be bothered typing it again sorry vlw4nk3r

the rb20det is the worst possiable thing to throw into the vl. your losing a whole 1L of power and torque. save that little bit extra for a bloody rb25det, dont go any lower.

You most likely heard it all before but seriously weigh up all those costs involved where as you could just turbo your na for a fraction of the price and get higher power... sure there will be a limit with how much power (i've read a good 200rwkw out of na internals... dunno if that was with na gear box and diff tho) BUT... thats still nothing close to what a rb20det will give you for the price your willing to spend. Daz

25det wouldnt cost too much more.... and it would 5h1t all over the 20det..

daz u recken u can turbo the n/a motor for friction of the price everone else is say thats the most expensive way to go, people have told me to just buy full half cut and go about it that way. how much u recken to turbo the n/a motor ???

Have a look in the N/A section, there is a *sticky* thread in there, which links to a website that has step by step instructions on how to convert your car to turbo...

The website is here... http://home.iprimus.com.au/chris_white82/

Quote: daz u recken u can turbo the n/a motor for friction of the price everone else is say thats the most expensive way to go, people have told me to just buy full half cut and go about it that way. how much u recken to turbo the n/a motor ??? You can pretty much say you wouldnt have much change out of 1K / 1.5K if you got a complete turbo setup with all the bits and pieces... That way your saving on wiring, engineers cert etc... AND getting a better punch of power at the same time staying with the RB30. Daz

wouldnt it be better to keep the rb30 bottom end and throw the rb25 head on....you keep the 3.0L gain a cam and then you can turbo it....I am sure you would see some good power then.....

yeah, for the price of the rb20det motor ($1500 - $2000) you could get yourself a rb25det head (including turbo, intake, injectors, dump pipe, etc)

the rb20 aint that bad if ur not going for huge power if ur putting it into a lightweight vl like the sl which would way less than a r32 id go it Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

bah your missing the point david its like putting a frikn rotor into a vl, it will have to rev off its head to move.

wont have to rev off its head to move bro, how can u talk maco when u dont own one? Ure like saying its a piece of **** when uve prolly never driven one. Itd be faster for sure than a na VL. Once its got 3.9/4.11 diff gears in it, she should go pretty well for a stocker. As for the rb25 head itll end up costing him 1500-2000 for the head and manifolds, then u gotta get a mechanic/pro shop to fit it all up PROPERLY so u kno it will be reliable thats another 2000, prolly aftermarket managment which is 1600 for a microtech then a pro to tune it properly, before all that ull have to think of a fuel system. Thats all pending the fact that the head doesnt need to go to a reconditioner to get its valve stem seals replaced, crakc tested etc. the turbo doesnt need a rebuild, injectors dont need a clean etc. And that uve got a complete gasket set. So ure looking at 5000$ minimum for the 25det head conversion. Whereas if u can do the 20det conversion for 5000$max. If hes after something with a little more power than the na then the RB20det is worth doing IF u want to leave it stock. But then again if ure after more power in the future then ud want to spend money on buying a RB30ET(or building one) or a RB25DET so ullhave more HP to get out of it in the future without costing too much (compared to the RB20DET). As for turboing ur NA motor (Properly) I have ur answer: Get urself a S2 engine - $200-400 off the forums Acid dip/Deck/Hone the block - $depends on what u need done New VLT Pistons (Hypertech) - $400ish Piston rings (Chrome moly at the very least) - $100ish Bearings (ACL race series are good) - $100+ish Conrods will hold up as they are the same - $included with ur S2 engine) VLT Oil pump - $50-100ish off the forums VLT Cam+Valve train - $50-100ish off the forums Head is identical - $included with ur s2 engine (needs to get sent away to get crack tested) $50ish VLT exh. manifold - $200-250 off the forums Standard Garrett T3 turbo - $400-500 off the forums Oil & Water lines for turbo - $50-100ish off the forums Inlet manifold - $included with ur s2 engine (people believe it flows better - ive ported mine and cleaned the bowls up) VLT Injectors - $200ish off the forums (rail and reg are the same) VLT ECU - $100-150ish off the forums VLT harness - $100ish off the forums New clutch & flywheel machine - $100-200ish Dump pipe from turbo to cat - $150-160ish (markoshyp sells em new, 3" mandrel bent with heat coat) Complete engine rebuild kit w/ seals & gaskets - $150ish+ (repco/autoone/autopro) Thats parts only, then u have to fit it all up or get someone who knows what they are doing which is prolly another ~1000$ in labour for putting it together by a third party. Total for parts - $2610 approx. with labour - ~$3610 slap on another 400-500 for a decent intercooler and another ~$400 for pipe work. This will give u an exact replica bar the inlet manifold of a standard VL Turbo engine, with the lowered compression and thus being able to up the boost without having much trouble then ure limited to whether or not u have a intercooler.

id go it man, cheap and cost effective. im not going for huge power and many of us wont at the end of the day so a rb20 could work. i drove a mates r32, stock. they go pretty good. u can drive the around off boost and they r still alrite, and when u wanna go just boost it abit.

Quote: Originally Posted by 86gr33nVL wont have to rev off its head to move bro, how can u talk maco when u dont own one? Ure like saying its a piece of **** when uve prolly never driven one. Itd be faster for sure than a na VL. Once its got 3.9/4.11 diff gears in it, she should go pretty well for a stocker. 1) i never will own one coz its a step backwards. 2) i have driven one and the only time it moved is on boost. 3) with a rb30 turbo you dont need to change diff gears to go good. you say its pretty much same price to make a rb30et so why not do that instead of the rb20det. who cares about plenums and exhaust maifolds. they can be done in the future. and also you already will have good power in a rb30et with out cooler.

u need the 3.9/4.11 diff gears in coz ur speedo will be out and this is wat the 32 skylines use with the rb20det. If uve ever driven a r32 it has a bit of go and itd be the same in a VL. Most ppl that have been in a VL with an rb20det complain that it doesnt move its only coz they havent got the higher diff ratio, and that the VL is prolly only running like 3.09 diff gears :S For the RB20det in a VL it is essential to put in the taller diff gears to get it up and going faster as this is wat the 32s run.

thats were your wrong, the digg gears in a vl are 3.45 when they have a rb30 motor in it. and a 3.08 if they have the V8.

ive driven an rb20 its ****house of boost. but it was an auto lol on boost it was smooth rb3o torque all the way (gotta love that auto language editor thing)