Been meaning to write this up for ages, so here goes... I purchased one of the stage 3 shiftkits from KEAS http://www.keas.com.au/proddetail.asp?prod=SP001 (just as a point of interest, it was posted really quickly and has some pretty detailed instructions!) When I did this, the gearbox was out of the car, so if yours is still attached, then drain the oil out first by unscrewing the sump cover and then unscrew the front screws completly so it drains out semi-slowly. You could probably also just take off one of the oil cooling lines which hook into the radiator and crank the engine a bit to get the majority out if you're lazy. Once you take the gearbox sump cover off completly (zillions of little screws) you'll be looking at this: Remove the black panel with the filter in it... Theres a series of brassy coloured bolts around the outer edge of the valvebody, so take them all out, and note where they came from as they are different lengthes! now with a bit of jiggling you should be able to get the whole valvebody out with out too many difficulties, put it on a clean surface once it's out. ok now is the time to more into a clear well lit environment and undo all the remaining screws, if you're anything like me springs and **** will go flying everywhere when you undo the two halves of the valvebody. Once it all comes out you'll be left with the two halves, the sandwich plate, and a handful of screws/ballbearings now theres a little plastic plate on one side with a wire attached, its held on by 3 bolts, undo them and again, look out for any springs flying out. Grab your keas 'beefed-up-and-also-red' spring, and replace the one which came out of the hole, as far as I know this firms up 1-2 gearshifts. Now just use the keas plate instead of the old standard one and basically put it back together in the reverse order! Don't forget to re-align the ball bearings and springs in their correct positions before you screw it back together, it might take a few goes as doing it. As i was putting it back together I flushed a bit of trans oil on most of the parts just to ensure that no crap had accidentally caught in there, also while you have it out you should also replace the filter. Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

good post there mate! thanx

how do ya no where all the put all the ball bearings and springs? do ya need to no anything about gear box's to do this ?

nice one gav about time you got it up!! god damm i just got a service done on the auto i should of got a shift kit and got the place that did the auto to put that in also god damm!! Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

what are them kits worth

if only my VL was worth a shift kit...

they are the questions what is the kit worth how easy is it to get all those springs and **** in right places.

it's $66 plus postage if you follow the link to the keas site in the article, you can buy it online. There's only 2 other springs, one has a ball bearing and the other has a gold cup to fit on/in - you can see the round holes where they go on the 4th pic down, maybe I'll mark them a bit more clearly tomorrow, but yeah when I said handful, I just meant 4 seperate peices for that particular step. Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Nice work How was the auto after you installed the shift kit? Does it make a notable difference? Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

just a tip guys, take off the filter (black thing) AFTER removing the vavle body. normally 2 of the bolts for the filter go right through the vavle body and have nuts on the other end and if the trans is out of the car it'll fall in the trans.. yey! obviously also put the filter back on the valve body before it goes back in the trans.

So platinum, what was your gearbox like after you installed the shiftkit ? does it slam gears way harder, notice much difference ? Im guessing for $66 you cant really go wrong. Does this kit just make 1st to 2nd gear change harder what about 2nd to 3rd ? thanks, nice write up to.

my upshifts are noticeably harder, not jerky but but quick and solid. downshifts were the most dramatic improvement though, before it used to rev flare between 3-2 when you floored it, now it just goes down hard and fast. 2-1 is even better.

Sounds pretty good ill have to get one. Thanks for that stocky.

i didnt know it was that easy and cheap

Just a question, why is the non-turbo one $200 more?

i changed my filter once and 2 bolts wouldnt go back in, so i left them out, i guess the nuts must have moved, lol, oh well, its rebuilt now, so im guessing all bolts are there

Quote: Originally Posted by StockyMcStock my upshifts are noticeably harder, not jerky but but quick and solid. downshifts were the most dramatic improvement though, before it used to rev flare between 3-2 when you floored it, now it just goes down hard and fast. 2-1 is even better. Yeah I noticed the 3-2 shift as well, it seems to just be a feather touch of the accelerator and you have second there waiting. 1-2 shifts very hard, sticks in 1st right up to 3/4000rpm when in drive before it will even think about shifting (thats just taking of extremely gradually and easing up the speed limit), shifting to second is very fast and you get 'slingshotted' right into it. Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

I got a quote just to see how much it would cost to get one put in by a gearbox shop. they said $280, does this sound right ? Is your gearbox just standard platinum with a shiftkit, if so how much boost you putting thro it ?