I thought this would make an interesting topic.. This is for RB30 motors with the RB25 Head on them either VVT or Non VVT turbo or non turbo variants.. Questions? 1: From start to finish what did it cost? 2: Was it worth the effort? 3: What problems did you run into / have?

Oh found this post related.... http://www.calaisturbo.com.au/showt...hlight=rb30dett (http://www.calaisturbo.com.au/showthread.php?t=4949&highlight=rb30dett)

1. Too scared too add it up! 2. Definately 3. Keeping the coolant temp down

how come the coolant temp goes up like u say Monster u think having the better flowing head it would be cooler.

Hasn't really been a problem directly related to the conversion i guess. I still had the problem (only on 30+ days) when the single cammer was in. I'm using a 16" thermo with the shroud. I think the fan might be too close to the radiator though. Even with the shroud, it must be only sucking air through the area of the fan, not the whole radiator. I reckon if was back towards the engine in the same spot the clutch fan would be in, it would be better. But....it still struggles to hold the guage at or below 1/2 when on the highway, which suggests its not getting enough airflow. The cooler and a/c condensor in front of the rad can't be helping. I've seen VL's with a black plastic thingy under the radiator. Is this some sort of scoop? cos mine don't have it. Sorry carcrazy....bit off topic!

I'd put the black air dam on and see how it goes. More air has to help.

1. I'm up to around $1500, useing a VVT head. That includes everything I purchased so far.....But I've also added some bits that you won't find on most conversions, like water injectors etc 2. I hope it will be.....otherwise....well...... 3. My curent problem is one of the coolant galleries, there is only 1mm-1.5mm between the head and the edge of the block......MonsterS4 what did you do about this? My Twincam conversion is a little diffrent than most because I have this thing hanging off the side.... And yes it does clear a turbo manifold if I get the urge.....note the carboard bracket over the other side....thats for the power steering pump relocation....and the a/c compressor fits under the blower.... Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Here go's.... RB30 bottom end $100 R33 RB25DE engine with loom $1250 RB20 turbo exhaust manifold $100 Rebuild bottom end, ceramic coat piston crowns, external oil feed and mods to head $1100 Mazda 20B injectors $450 Bosch 910 fuel pump $180 GT3040 turbo $2000 48mm turbosmart 'gate $720 Haltech E11 $2200 + $??? to fabricate new dump pipe, wastegate pipe, adapter for turbo to manifold, modify cooler pipes, and lots of other stuff i've forgotten. This is without going forgies! Nizmodore, i had the machine shop add some material to the head around that coolant gallery then surfaced the head. Is that a toyota blower? How much airflow can they handle?

thats a supercharger on the right hand side

Yeah........and........??

nizmodore assures me the toyota huffer can exceed 14psi in certain applications, at huge rpm. the problem becomes cooling the vanes and outlet charge, which i suspect he may be doing with some water injection like i did. other good methods include: 1. wet fogger NO2 system pre-supercharger 2. draw-through carburettor system 3. fuel injector(s) placed before the supercharger i reckon he's still going to run out of scope with the little charger though, but time will tell someone's gotta try it to find out! ooh and monstaS4: you're going to HATE those 20B injectors for the fuel economy and idle they deliver. i did a lot of reading up on them (i was considering them, as well as RX7 squirters for a while) and the single pintle tip is not designed for use on a conventional inlet manifold, rather on the rotary it originated on. spray patterns are evidently not pretty, and some people report the outlet spray @ 40psi to be little more than a solid jet of fuel. plays havoc with idle, and fuel consumption i hear. just speculation though, don't have any good first hand experience. Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Yes indeed somebody has to find out.....Still its nice to be makeing something diffrent They displace 1.4 litres of air per revolution or 75 cc (its actually 79cc) I know this is after the blower (and after the throttlebody) Look closely at my inlet manifold..... (First ramble that REALLY should belong in another thread) There is another one on the other side. Its actually cold start injector out of a SV11 Toyota Camry. They are ment to flow a huge amount of fuel, but alas can't be pulsed at rapid speeds (eg 11ms) they are either on or off.....So I'm running a 50-45 mix of water to metho (with a bit of unleaded added in) and useing a spare VL Fuel pump I have to run the whole show. Those little suckers have a great spray pattern........I'll start up another thread on my water injection system later....The system is fully pressure regulated (at 4 bar) and is tied into the AFM..... (Second Ramble that really should belong in another thread) Yeah I've seen/worked on SC14's running in excess of 14PSI. We'll see how we go! They displace 1.4 litres of air per revolution or 75 cc (its actually 79cc) Still if I gear it correctly, it should provide a hell of a low down kick, and then (when I can afford it) the largish T4 (or bigger kicks in at higher RPM....) We found with some blower system it all depended on the tensioner, a extra 2-3 psi of boost can be found sometimes with a effective tensioner system.... Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

yep, i'd suspect that big RPM and big boost out of the little bugger is going to start up all sorts of possible belt slip issues. i really want you to get the twincharge going, i think you will be very happy with the results! after a lot of thought on the issue, i decided to quit buggering around and am now saving for a whipple. after looking at the flow specs on the lysholm site i just couldn't get over the massive CFM capabilities and >90% volumetric efficiency almost everywhere in the rev range. reliability is another big thing for me, i just can't afford to be stuffing around changing exhaust A/R's and blowing up turbos all the time, i need something that will work all day every day. keep me posted on the progress, i particularly want to see a dyno chart and have a look at your torque curve. p.s. love that tensioner setup, made good use of a few superfluous bolts on the front cover there! very clean and solid, good thinking.

Stocky, don't believe everything you read. True the 20B's are not designed for a multivalve manifold, but the spray pattern they deliver is VERY broard and VERY fine. I was in the workshop when they were being cleaned, so this is first hand experience. It idles smooth as the factory VL does. Fuel economy i havn't checked yet, as the motor is still being run in, but who cares really! Nice work Nismodore! Good to see something different. Combined with VCT it should have a very strong bottom end/midrange. But yea, considering the huffer came off a 2ltr, i'd guess it will run out of puff up high. About 10 years ago i had an RA40 celica with a 1GGZE running 12psi, and the response it had was awsome. Just didn't have the top end a turbo gives.

Yeah my car is a day to day hack, thats why I'm not going to the expense of large injectors and aftermarket Engine management system.......I'll probably go down that path if/when I put a Turbo on the sucker......(the temptation is there.....) A SC14 shouldn't cause too many problems. I've got this device from J-Car that alters the input from the AFM, and can be setp with load points......neat little device.....I'll post up a link on it if I can find one....and only $90 to....

Im building one of these motors right now. My new project. Only real drama is getting the head welded. (The only thing i cant do myself.) Getting it welded as we speak. Other than that its seems to be a straight bolt up job. Im going to run with the PowerFC when the motor is finished, these ecu's now that i look at them in more detail are really quite capable and plug straight into the RB25DET loom. Plus they have knock detection which looks like a really good feature. Flashes dash warning light when the determined amount of knock has triggered, plus the idle strategy looks really good as well. It can automatically stablize the idle by the AAC and also add timing as well. Im not even going to put it in my car, going to fit it to my brothers R31, and turf his 30ET. Im honestly very happy with my RB30ET in the calais. I just want to build a DET, to see how it goes more than anything, see if all the hype is worth it. After this project, i think the RB26DETT will be on the cards for myself. Something about RB26's make me tingly all over. It certainly isnt the cost thats for sure though. Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

guys are you doing this for outright power or a better torque spread? i'd like to do an RB30DET later this year purely to get a much nicer sprea of torque and less laggy engine than the RB30ET is. however the cost involved versus the gain may mean that its really better off for me to just rebuild my 30ET bottom end once it goes. i'm only after 200rwkw at the most.

I love RB engines, so i want to tinker while i have some RB cars at my disposal to throw the motors in. I just want to see what sort of torque spread and if the top end opens up much with the twin cam head. I've since been told, in the last week, that the RB25 cams are a little mild for the 30L engine and will fall off preety quickly after 6000rpm and im not planning on getting bigger items as they cost a small fortune. So until its up and running I wont be able to comment on the drivability, although im so keen to get it running. Also i want to see what fuel economy i can get. I find the RB30ET chews fuel like there is no tomorrow (for a 3L motor anyway). Maybe this has to do with the low compression bottom end that isnt very efficient? I dunno. I will be bolting up the stock RB25 ceramic turbo when i first install the motor, so it will be exciting to see how quickly the turbo boosts and the low torque that is available. As soon as the rear wheel falls off the turbo, which wont take long i will fit up a much larger item, something like a GT30/40 for a full rpm power band. I think MonstaS4 said these things have positive pressure in the manifold by around 2200rpm. So it should have great low down grunt and top end spread as well.

Quote: Originally Posted by natho guys are you doing this for outright power or a better torque spread? i'd like to do an RB30DET later this year purely to get a much nicer sprea of torque and less laggy engine than the RB30ET is. however the cost involved versus the gain may mean that its really better off for me to just rebuild my 30ET bottom end once it goes. i'm only after 200rwkw at the most. Neither. My 30ET was getting tired, the head needed a re-build and i wanted a project over the winter Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Quote: Originally Posted by RB30-POWER I love RB engines, so i want to tinker while i have some RB cars at my disposal to throw the motors in. I just want to see what sort of torque spread and if the top end opens up much with the twin cam head. I've since been told, in the last week, that the RB25 cams are a little mild for the 30L engine and will fall off preety quickly after 6000rpm and im not planning on getting bigger items as they cost a small fortune. So until its up and running I wont be able to comment on the drivability, although im so keen to get it running. Also i want to see what fuel economy i can get. I find the RB30ET chews fuel like there is no tomorrow (for a 3L motor anyway). Maybe this has to do with the low compression bottom end that isnt very efficient? I dunno. I will be bolting up the stock RB25 ceramic turbo when i first install the motor, so it will be exciting to see how quickly the turbo boosts and the low torque that is available. As soon as the rear wheel falls off the turbo, which wont take long i will fit up a much larger item, something like a GT30/40 for a full rpm power band. I think MonstaS4 said these things have positive pressure in the manifold by around 2200rpm. So it should have great low down grunt and top end spread as well. definatly post up your findings on the conversion im particually interested in fuel economy