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Fuel Gauge and Aftermarket Temp Gauge - help??

Started by -NiCkeL- · 19 Dec 2004 · 7 replies

Preserved from CalaisTurbo. Original authors and dates are shown; archived members are not current Holdcom accounts.

-NiCkeL-Archived member
Hey guys, I am after some help and advice about a couple of issues. All being familar with the VL's, most of you will know the fuel gauges on these cars don't work all that well. Mine will go to full when it's filled up, but as soon as it hits 3/4's, it'll die. Has anyone found the reason for this? Another quick question, I am trying to fit an aftermarket temp gauge into the car. I have tried several things to put the sender, but each time it'll read ultra cold, or go to the other extreme. Where would be the best place to put the sender? Hope someone can help me!
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-NiCkeL-Archived member
Anyone??
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RB30-POWERArchived member
You should get a piece of pipe, drill a hole and weld a nut on it, to suit the temp sensor. Screw the temp sensor in it, then cut the top radiator hose in half and slip the pipe inline with it. (Will need an extra two clamps of course) That is the best way that most people use. You have to use the sensor that comes with gauge, the factory sensors won't work correctly with aftermarket guages. With the fuel sender, unplug the wiring connector on the tank for the sender, with a multimeter check the resistance. From memory it should read around 300ohms when full down to about 70ohms when empty. (Something like that) The sender has a needle that runs up and down a carbon type track, over the years the tracking tends to wear out, and you can either get dead spots, where it won't read at all, or wont read properly. If you test the sendor and it seems to give ok readings. I would guess that the dash guage is stuffed. (unlikely though) /edit (fix typos)
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-NiCkeL-Archived member
Thanks for your input in regards to the fuel sender... Is there possibly another way to fit the temperature sender somewhere else rather than sticking it in a hose? I have spent alot of time and effort getting the engine bay clean, I didn't want to wreck it all by cutting hoses, etc. Thanks again for your reply.
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RB30-POWERArchived member
There isnt really anywhere in the manifold to squeeze another sender in. You need it located in that hose area for accurate temperature. The other place you could put it, is pull out the radiator and below the top hose get a nut welded in to suit the temp sensor. Thats all the radiators mob do to fit the calais low water warning sensor. (except that is on the other tank/other side) So pull the radiator and get a cooling/radiator place to weld a nut on the tank below the hose, that way it won't be seen and still report accurate temperature.
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cleanvltArchived member
Quote: Originally Posted by RB30-POWER With the fuel sender, unplug the wiring connector on the tank for the sender, with a multimeter check the resistance. From memory it should read around 300ohms when full down to about 70ohms when empty. (Something like that) The sender has a needle that runs up and down a carbon type track, over the years the tracking tends to wear out, and you can either get dead spots, where it won't read at all, or wont read properly. If you test the sendor and it seems to give ok readings. I would guess that the dash guage is stuffed. (unlikely though) im having similar problems as -NiCkeL- with my fuel gauge. you mentioned a carbon type track. would anyone know if you can purchase replacements ones from Holden if yours is worn out? most parts for VL's are hard to come by now days.
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RB30-POWERArchived member
Nah, its part of the sender unit. You can get new senders from Holden or any car part store. Just clip your internal fuel pump to the sender and thats it.
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strArchived member
Is there any aftermarket fuel gauges? Cause my VL one is dodgy I think as well
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