ok i got a few tips off this guy in a car club i got told to join, hes like 40 had a vl for a first car, now has a 12 second vs commodore and is a spray painter/mechanic, he told me the following: 1. buy a pod filter 2. get rid of the mesh on the afm 3. disconnect the battery for 24 hours so the computer resets, then reconnect it and go give it a bit of a flogging so the ecu puts in new settings, supposed to get more power, jst wanted to know what use all think of this? he told me u will get a noticable affect but not over the top...

1. Depending on where the pod filter is placed, if it's in the engine bay it'll probably be breathing higher temperature air. I noticed no difference going from the aftermarket pod filter that the previous owner had on my car to a standard air filter, apart from a bit of induction noise. 2. the mesh is on the afm for a reason (if nissan could save money by not putting it there, they would). Feel free to do it, but don't expect to see any worthwhile result if you put the car on a dyno. 3. It'd probably feel like an improvement, but it's probably because you haven't driven the car for 24 hrs. Negligble at best.

yeh i 2nd everything spOOnfed says

Disconnecting your battery wont do crap, i have my battery disconnected for months at a time, car never changes

Uter - you have obviously been fishing around on sc yes?

That battery thing is true on turbo skylines(from what I've read). Like if you get an exhaust fitted you do it, but a quicker way is to disconnect the battery and press the brakes for a bit. I've read this on some skyline site. It doesn't have to be done but it just takes a bit longer for the computer to ajust to the new settings.

So you unplug the battery, and the ecu goes back to the "from factory" settings. You lose any adjustments the computer may have learnt about modifications done, and thus it has to relearn them. What would pressing the brakes do? Other than trigger the brake lights at the back of the car that would not activate anyway because the battery is unplugged. The ECU's capacitors would still retain power. If you think it'll make a difference, go for it. Sounds like a load of crap to me.

hahaha. i heard that you disconnect the battery and sleep in the car for a week and it will automatically tune itself for ever

Resetting the computer worked well on my EF XR6, but those computers have really good self learning modes. Dont think it would make much difference on VL's.

suggestions 1-3 all look like cheap weak tricks to get 'go' out of a n/a 6... how about adding another one.. 4. Turbo ?

Quote: Originally Posted by xrsux Resetting the computer worked well on my EF XR6, but those computers have really good self learning modes. Dont think it would make much difference on VL's. So doesn't that seem a bit silly, the computer has learnt how the car goes, and you reset it.

i think the idea is so it resets to suit the new pod, but the pod isnt worth the effort, a good panel and cai beats that any day. and maybe by pressing the brake its grounding any power left so it'll shut off quicker uter, dont take the front mesh off the afm, its there to give the air a more lenear flow which helps the afm give a better reading, but taking the back one out makes no difference, when i took my front one out the car idled a little rough

Air flow is measured by the AFM, so a pod filter shouldn't really make that much difference with respect to the ECU at least in VL's, apart from at idle (TPS responds with throttle closed). Pressing the brake shouldn't make any difference to the ECU having power. As the battery is disconnected, the only power the ECU should have is in it's capacitors, and they won't have any connection to the brakes or any other system of the car really. Juzi, how long did you have the front mesh out for? I'll bet if you gave it a couple of hours of running the idle will smooth out again. Not that I'd recommend doing it. When I put in a new k&n filter into my car, the idle went all over the shop, it still ran fine apart from the idle. However 24 hours later (after a few journey's), the idle returned to normal.

Pod filters are crap they just suck in hot air, get a CAI. The cons of removing the AFM mesh far outweigh the Pros. It will make a pretty much unnoticable difference and make the already fragile AFM more subseptible to damage. As for disconnecting the battery and resetting the ECU...i dont really see the point.

hhahaha Do it all... sounds wicked...the pod filter will rob you of what, 5rwhp... then with your sick air flow meter mod and battery ****, you can make it up again... or not. What a load of **** Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Quote: Originally Posted by sp00nfed So doesn't that seem a bit silly, the computer has learnt how the car goes, and you reset it. Well the car learns how to drive economically - if you reset it and drive it a bit heavier it adjusts to that style. My mate went to get his VS V8 remapped and they told him to do that first and he picked up around 15kw (before the remap) just by getting the computer to relearn the new driving style.

Quote: Originally Posted by xrsux Well the car learns how to drive economically - if you reset it and drive it a bit heavier it adjusts to that style. My mate went to get his VS V8 remapped and they told him to do that first and he picked up around 15kw (before the remap) just by getting the computer to relearn the new driving style. Not on a vl but!

meh i guess u cant knock it till u try it, i will be trying it.

My mesh has been out for 4 years and the afm is fine. If you have a good aircleaner it'll be fine. I think Matt knows what he's talking about. Disconnecting the battery won't do squat. (I tried it years ago ) Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

i chucked a pod filter on my gf's stock as a rock vl makes way better sound when i boot it in the guts on a nice cold night unsure if it gives the car any more power maybe...but as every 1 else says on a hot day will will suk in way more hot air for sure wich aint no good Some original photos have not been recovered yet.