Vl Turbo Auto
The problem seems to be intermittent as sometimes the car is fine but when it happens you rev the car above 2500 the tacho bounces from about 2000 to 4000 rpm and the car starts missing and backfiring, actually it is more like surging and its harded (than usual) to rev any higher.
It does it in park as well.
Car has new CAS, CAS connector, plugs, coil, power transistor.
Does it sound like a fuel problem? Im getting confused
Cheers in advance
Quote:
Originally Posted by SirGeo
Afm?
Could AFM cause this?
I have another one that I tried (although it has been sitting in the shed for about 18 months, it was good when i took it off last car) , problem was still there. they are both set on 382 ohms, but i tried adjusting anyway . no good unless they are both ****ed.
Thanks anyway
Quote:
Originally Posted by Midz
No
its the cable the comes from the dizy and goes to the coil.
Replace that cable, and see how you go.
are you talking about the coil lead?? or the wiring itself
[QUOTE=Bones]Vl Turbo Auto
The problem seems to be intermittent as sometimes the car is fine but when it happens you rev the car above 2500 the tacho bounces from about 2000 to 4000 rpm and the car starts missing and backfiring, actually it is more like surging and its harded (than usual) to rev any higher.
heya bones my vlct is doing the exact same, tahco fluctuates and it missfires!! ive replaced coil,pwr trans, plugs, injectors, cas, cap & rotor, leads, injector plugs and pins, cas plug and pins,temp coolant sensor- an plug & pins,....So ill be f**ked if i knew its become very $$$$ and mine still does it so my answr to your thread is try another ecu.. let us know wat fixed it so i can fix mine thanks bones... ps then again you could try a new engine harness, i hav'nt done that yet.. mmmm?
Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
i am getting the same thing.
car doesnt like going above 2000rpm and when the turbo kicks in it doesnt like it and jolts around, fu!cks up etc
is it the throttle position sensor? tps
mine was doing that after i played around with the timing on it but then i had a nother play and it seems to be back to normal not sure if that will help neone else but i think thats what it was on mine
OK, fixed problem today. Just replaced all plugs and leads so im not sure which it was. Im pretty sure it was the leads as number 1 sparkplug was nearly white while all the rest looked fine. running great again.
My car was down for days. Firstly get some electrical spray grease and go around to all your afm cas coil connections and clean them up with a small file. Only replace afm if your car starts and idles fine with it disconnected. With car running do the wiggle test, bend and twist your afm wiring harness in every position lift it up as high as it can go. If engine idle changes do this until you find where the wires might be dodgey and relace. If prob persists, pull your airflow meter wiring harness out and check pins at ECU (check greggories manual) for continuity.
My harness was earthing out to the block giving awfull results. It only started cause I taped it up to look pretty. Another mate had the black fatter wire in the afm harness was bridging with another wire and they weren't actually copper on copper, just placing both wires next to each other made engine run rough.
My drag car dropped and cylinder from idle to right through the rev range, no load and full load. One would guess it was the plug, new plug in same prob, cleaned injector same prob, spray electrical grease on afm harness plug, car back to perfect in seconds.
Unless it heat related (only starts or is worse when hot) then its your afm harness.
