Hey Guys/Girls,
I blew a head gasket, and now i have replaced it with a nissan one.
re-torqued the head, bolted manifold and lines etc up,
All i have to now is get the cam belt on, bolt dizzy up & exhaust.
Just wondering is there anything i haven't done/missed etc?
Am i going to have any troubles as the pistons will be on a different stroke, to the vavles etc?
Cheers
Greg
When I did mine the only thing that gave me no love was the timing was out...
If timings out she wont start...
Apart from that you havent missed anything... After 500 or so K's Re torque the head bolts...
all u need to do man is set it to TDC and the dowel on the cam gear has to be pointing (straight up, vertical at the highest point) as far as im aware, u can then do ur teeth count on the belt, put it on and tension it, and then **** with the dizzy to get it just leaving no1 cyl on tdc.... (on compression stoke)
anyone else add to that, ? correct me ?
Ollie
sweet, cool. wasn't sure if i putting the head on with the pistons on different stroke would **** valves etc.
If that's it, then i'm on the home straight then
Cheers fellas.
Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
So long as you get the cam timing right with the engine - like Ollie said - you won't smash valves. The only hard(er) thing is getting the spark on the right cycle. It can be 180 out. Look through the oil filler or better yet, don't put the rocker cover on till the dizzy is in. The dizzy should be pointing at no1 lead when no1 piston is on TDC and the rocker arms are CLOSED. if they are open at all the dizzy should be pointing at no6. Good luck.
Correct ollie, although it doens't matter if the cam gear dowel isn't pointing exactly vertically. If the mark on the cam gear and the mark on the crank are lined up properly with the belt and also if the crank mark is lined up with the oil pump housing notch they are the most important things.
Greg you will probably find that the timing belt has a couple of marks already made on it and that all you need to do is line up the belt marks with the cam/crank marks. Also while you have it off, put a bit of anti-seize around the inside of the crank pulley where it fits on to the crankshaft snout, it makes removal so much easier next time.
yes and if you want to learn a few extra little things, like bleeding the coolant properly and stuff, grab a gregories manual, there is heaps of useful info for only around $30.
Make sure you bleed it properly or you will be doing another head gasket shortly.
You learn heaps too doing it yourself, good on you greg.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ijd
I thought the genuine head gaskets don't need re-torqeing.
What the?
so did you just super glue your head down lol.
Thanks for the comments boys, hopefully get it up and running asap.
And Lowy, i have the gregories and i know it is a must "bleeding the cooling system" to get rid of those air pockets or I'll be saying hello pistons real soon again, when i am changing it over for the 2nd time
Also If any of you don't have it, be sure to get the full set of vl service manuals off Darren (Turbopower)
They are excellent and well worth the money
Cheers
Greg
Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
why *** with it??? when i changed mine, i didnt move anything, and put it all back on the way it came off and it was fine?
i dont see why u have to worry bout lining it all up? unless u turned the motor over with the head off?
Put the motor with No.1 piston on TDC
Put the head on with the dowell at the top on the camgear.
Allign marks on the dizzy so that it points at No.1 spark plug lead
Count your 53 teeth/grooves on the cambelt.
Just remember to follow the rules for tightening the rockers. 4,5&6 while its at tdc and then turn the motor over clockwise to get the dowell on the camgear on the bottom and then tighten rockers 1,2&3.
Fairly straight forward as the other guys have described already.
