I was looking to find a stroker kit for the rb30's
I wanna buy a vl and was thinking of stroking it to start off with then later on down the track either a 1g toyota supercharger or just a t4 turbo setup.
someone on a website said that the company "jun" made a stroker kit for the rb30 to make it a 3.2 litre motor but i cant find it anywhere???
Quote:
poweraddict
Originally posted by magoo
you should put a RB30 block with RB26 head in it with a JUN stroker kit and then all HKS internals and such.....and turbo that......it would work b/c the RB30 is a rwd so it can be done easily
I am not aware that Jun makes a stroker kit for the RB30, I didn't think anyone had a kit for the RB30, if you could stroke it to a 3.2 or 3.3l that would be pretty cool. The RB30 block is just a block, it could be used in a GTR or GTST. People use it in their all wheel drive GTR's all the time, its not a rwd block.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
magoo
JUN does have a stroker....id rather have like, rb40
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
poweraddict
Originally posted by magoo
JUN does have a stroker....id rather have like, rb40
So what does it stroke it to?
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
magoo
3.2 litres
im sure theres gota be something out there.... any help is appreciated!!!
cheers
Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
pretty sure there's a 3.3L stroker kit, not sure who makes it though, and that appears to the be the limit of the block.
buying a stroker kit would be freaking expensive (in the order of thousands of dollars)... although it would give you a strong bottom end.
Another thing to consider is that you would be modifying the squareness of the engine (bore and stroke are almost equal to stroke being bigger) so you'd more than likely lose revability to a degree, although you wouldn't have to rev it as high to make the same power.
This has the advantage of lowering engine wear (Wear proportional to the square of rpm), but is very costly, and you'd be better off spending your money elsewhere in my opinion.
Bolting on a supercharger (like stockymcstock's setup) would give you cheap power gains, and easily surpass the power/torque gains from stroking it.
Here's a link to jun's website about stroking kits.
http://www.junauto.co.jp/products/cy...crankshaft/?en (http://www.junauto.co.jp/products/cylinderblock-part/crankshaft/?en)
Only one there for rb series engines is the rb26dett stroker kit (takes it to 2.7L)
For a approximate price:
This is for a toyota supra stroking kit to 3.4L's, $11915 (US Dollars) and that isn't installed, it's just the kit.
http://www.hksusa.com/products/?id=2409
Buying a stroker kit and bolting on a toyota supercharger aren't exactly in the same realm.
ie - if You want the extra ..% horsepower from having a stroker, you would want to be making some decent horsepower already with the 3lt. ie big $$$ bolt ons. Not cheap T4/blower stuff
**** i didnt think it would be that expensive i think ill just stick to minor mods wen i get her until i go turbo not much else u can do.
basic mods that i can think of :
xf throttle body
cold air
stage 3 cam
exhaust 2 1/2 inch
extractors
anything else that gives hp for not that expensive price of a stroker kit???
thnx for ur help guys!!!
More than you think. But this is once you are in the 'upper echelon' of HP extraction per litre.
And for all the samrt asses out there - I don't mean 250hp/lt like the F1 guys. I mean like 110+hp p/lt NA or 160+hp p/lt turbo
Quote:
Originally Posted by Uter
how much more hp would u get from stroking it ??!?! thats only like 300cc more, why bother?
It's not just that, as LukeVL said when your already making a lot of power from the 3L and you got to 3.3L's you get somewhere around 10% more power.
However, if you went from 3L to 3.3L's you could detune the engine a little, and gain say 5% more power but have a much more reliable engine.
Quote:
Originally Posted by fcukthedj
**** i didnt think it would be that expensive i think ill just stick to minor mods wen i get her until i go turbo not much else u can do.
basic mods that i can think of :
xf throttle body
cold air
stage 3 cam
exhaust 2 1/2 inch
extractors
anything else that gives hp for not that expensive price of a stroker kit???
thnx for ur help guys!!!
why would you put a stage 3 cam in your car? if your cams to big for the rest of the set up its taking a backwards step. you cant just throw a big cam in and expect it to work. you gotta get every thing to suit your in setup.
Quote:
Originally Posted by fcukthedj
**** i didnt think it would be that expensive i think ill just stick to minor mods wen i get her until i go turbo not much else u can do.
basic mods that i can think of :
xf throttle body
cold air
stage 3 cam
exhaust 2 1/2 inch
extractors
anything else that gives hp for not that expensive price of a stroker kit???
thnx for ur help guys!!!
I dont know why nobody's told you already, but your choices here are completely miss-matched and a waste of time.
a.) What exactly is a "Stage 3" cam? Who's it made by? What does it increase? I'd suggest something a little more mild too if it's going to be a street car. I'm going a JPC/Crow Stage 1 cam.
b.) Dont bother with an XF throttle on an n/a, just dont. Wait til you've at least got the turbo parts.
c.) If you're going to get an exhaust, at least have the turbo parts ready and go a 3" mandrel bent system. Dont bother with a 2.5" if you're going power and turbo setup.
d.) Extractors - as above. Exhaust system on the turbo is completely different and n/a extractors are a throwaway item in a turbo setup, waste of money.
About the only thing I would bother with on your list at this time is the CAI. Even that may be un-necessary at this moment. What you really have to decide right now is a.) do you really want to spend the money it takes to go turbo? ie. is your car in good enough condition that it wont need a respray and can you be bothered sourcing a disc rear end, bigger fuel setup, etc. and b.) are you chasing power. If so, ditch the n/a pistons and be prepared to spend a ****load more than $11k. I've spent probably $5k in the last year on the essentials and hardly anything's bolted on.
Finally, there are plenty of threads about what you can use for power already here. There's nothing wrong with a T04, but more streetable items can be had that will produce similar power. Ofcourse if you're after a 10 second run, a T04 may not be enough.
If your serious about going quick, your best bet is to buy a original vl turbo that's in good condition. Buying something already modified (provided it's still in good condition) is generally a lot cheaper than modifying it yourself.
Converting a NA is a long expensive path, like murdercity said, don't bother with mods that aren't reusable with the turbo setup. If you want something with a touch more guts than a standard vl, look out for one that someone has already put extractors etc onto, and make sure you get a mechanic to look over it to make sure it's in good shape.
well my mates vl with a xf throttle body, cold air, exhaust and stage 3 cam (not sure exactly specs of cam) was putting out 107.9 kw at rear wheels. nothing else was done to it. so im hoping to get somewhere round that mark...
Quote:
Originally Posted by fcukthedj
well my mates vl with a xf throttle body, cold air, exhaust and stage 3 cam (not sure exactly specs of cam) was putting out 107.9 kw at rear wheels. nothing else was done to it. so im hoping to get somewhere round that mark...
And that's still less than a stocko turbo will put out, without the throttle body, without the cold air, without the exhaust, and without the cam. See what I mean dude?
my n/a makes around 100rwkw...second hand 2.5 inch exhaust(out of a write off), k&n panel and advanced timing, all up about $450, thats all u want to bother with an n/a, there just isnt the potential...if u are chasing big power ur better of buying a car thats already turbo and/or modded. and remember anything u do do to the car, do it properly the first time or u will b amazed at how much u will spend doing thing 2 or 3 times...
there are cheaper ways to stroking to rb26 and probably for the rb30 aswell, the bore of the rb26 is the same as the rb30, that means would should get away with fitting the rb30 crank into it, assuming you can machine the block enough to fit it in, with the right rods you will have stroked it to 3liters and it seems to be the best rb combination possible, as the rb26 block is stronger than the rb30 one.
also you dont need aftermaket rods, if you find the length you need and measurments of the crankshaft you will be able to find some rods off another engine, then just get sum strengthening treatment on them, thats all you'de need.
so the price of stroking all depends on the cost of the crank really, btw most mechanics will put a kit in for around 600 bux and i have been told sum1 makes a 3.3l kit for the rb30
Except I'm pretty sure there are difference in the crank, which is why the rb26 can rev to 8000rpm and a rb30 can't.
Pretty sure it's that the RB26 Crank is fully counter balanced, but the rb30 is only half counter balanced.
The kits made by Jun/HKS etc are expensive because they are designed and engineered properly to be a full rebuild of an engine ready to handle extremely high hp.
