hey guys. Im very confused and undecided (if such a word) on what i should do in regards to an engine. what i really want to do is build my own engine to save costs and for the experience and know that i have a descent engine. but also i could just buy an import and slot it in and have an ok engine. i guess the main question on my plate is. should i build my own RB30et which i plan to make as close to bullet proof as i can and i have a fair idea on what cost are going to be involved. hopefully get some help from you guys with the labour and finding parts. or import a RB25det slot it in and hope for the best that everything internal is going to hold up. cause im not going to be able to afford to rebuild it. this is something i want to start soon. what do you reckon. what are your views on this.

build the rb30et most import engines have close to 100000kms on them (thats if they are genuine kms) which would mean first job on the cards is a timing belt. Secondly, if the engine came out of a car that was backed by a manual box, sure enough its had its arse thrashed day in day out. If it were an auto then not so much. This advice was given to me by a car importer about getting an import nissan. If you build the donk, i can get you parts cheap (practically trade) Eg Dan is buying a set of Arias Forgies off me for $1300 a set with rings and pins If however you didnt want forgies theres hypatecs roughly $440 (w/out rings) Hastings plasma rings (best materials) are $135 a set Kings Engine Bearings (better than ACL Race and Hold a beating) - Big Ends Roughly $65 a set - Mains Roughly $80 a set The only other thing from there would be to get your crank grinded where the rb30 crank is tough as nuts!! Can shot peen if need be but not necessary, Just get balanced And your rods, definitely get shot peened and balanced. Bullet proof rods are in the excess of 1300 a set!!! Eagle rods are about 2200 a set!! Other than that a GTR oil pump and your set! Want more prices gimme a yell.. RB30ET all the way!

i would be getting the whole block, head and crank prepped by an engine builder. then buy all the parts i need as i get the dollars to buy them,like the forgies, stronger rods and cam etc. still gonna cost a bucket but cheaper than an import. how do trimatics hold up to these block and what sort of power do you reckon they are capable of with standing?

tirmatics i like to call traumatics hehe.. get a stronger box you do know stronger rods will cost more than ur pistons

yeah i understand. i have over estimated on most parts.

rebuild an rb30et get the shop to assemble the bottom end keep the stock rods to save costs and get them shot peened and polished

im just gettign mine shot peened... should be tough for 300rwhp and a bit i hope hehehehehe

apparently some bloke on these forums ran a 10.5 on a stock rb30et with 170,000k's on the clock and 32 psi

i just want to do it right the first time so i dont want to take any chances

depends what you want i suppose. if you are willing to spend the time with your car off the road doing everything that will take 3 times longer than you planned then go the rb30. if you go an rb25 you can get a good idea of its condition from testing it. apparently its ok until it starts getting a bit marginal at about 350hp on stock internals and you can drop it straight in. just depends what you are after.

well ill be running the v8 till its time to drop in the new engine. then sell off the v8 once i have the new engine in.

nahh, keep the trimatic !! sounds like your only going for a mild, but strong engine... if you choose the right trans builder then the trimatic should be just fine...

yeah something along those lines. what sort of power would a trimatic hold? or should i go for a t400? to be safe?

well ill add my 2 cents, as everyone knows i have the rb20det in my car, its done i think 50,000ks, and i have had no dramas. i love the rb20,25,26 motors, they look a hell of alot newer, cleaner and tougher than the rb30et. so in my opinion i would go the rb25 dan, my mate jarrad bastin has been building his vl turbo with rb25 for about 3 years, its got stock bottom end, some head work, massive turbo, custom plenum, 755cc injectors, zaust, custom exhaust manifold, speedworks daughterchip and hes pushing over 500hp at the wheels on 20psi of boost! and thats ****n crazy!! speedworks have done all the work on his car and its cost him a motza but when you hear the NOISE of this rb25 dan u cream urself, i was in it just before he moved house and when he took off i couldnt think, i couldnt move we were going that fast! just make sure you go through a well known engine importer and you should be right.

Quote: yeah something along those lines. what sort of power would a trimatic hold? or should i go for a t400? to be safe? ive heard trimatics can be built to handle upto 500hp. if you want to change box, go the T350, T400's sap power. ive never heard of a t350/400 behind an rb30 either...

Go manual!!!

i bet your rb20 dont look as clean as my 30 Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

hahahahah told!!! Yeah ur bay is pretty clean... Wait till u see my r/c cover and all the bits that are getting polished in mine!!! btw remember the fastest street VL is using a 30 so ner!!! Yeah i agree with craig... go manual!

im sticking with an auto if i am to go with the RB30 but manual with the RB25 because i dont know of any auto boxes that hook up with the RB25 and that can handle descent power

bah!!!!