Hey thankyou for opening this thread, as of last night i am in desperate need of help. I went to go out last night but to my dismay the old vl wouldnt kick over, it sounded like it REALLY wanted to but just couldnt ignite. Anyway the voltmeter was really low (7 volts around) so i decided to jump-start it from my other car (VN). I turned the vn on at idle in park and left it running as i connected the black and then red cables (to the vn only, other ends are at this stage unconnected) I then connected the black and then red cable to the VL battery and left it for a few mins while the VN was running. I then tryed to kick over the VL and it still wouldnt start (nothing different). So i gave up, got out of the drivers seat and began to walk around to the front of the vehicle, as i walked to the engine bay there was a loud BANG and smoke (or some other gas or something) went EVERYWHERE from the engine bay (sorry i dont know if it was smoke or what because it was dark and no i cant remember what it smelt like lol). Following that i immediantly, after the smoke had cleared i disconnected the red and then black jumper cable. Upon inspectiing the engine bay now, there is no residue anywhere and the only problem appears to be the 'air regulator' (near the injectors) hose has become disconnected, i also observe that the clamp for this hose is very lose.
CAN ANYBODY HELP ME!! PLZ I AM TO AFRAID TO TRY KICKING HER OVER AGAIN! PLEASE HELP!
-jack
did u short the terminals out at all , or maybe earth it to the chassis or somewhere.
the smokie stuff , was it from wires melting? check all the wires that run off the battery and go down to the starter and the alternator etc.
strange why the air reg would blow off , got me stuffed.
many ppl say that jumping a "fuel injected" car can be dangerous , i have done it to my car , and have also used my car to do others and have never had a problem.
sounds silly but did u put the red on red and black on black , maybe the battery **** itself , blew a cell .
go and have a good look around in daylight , daylight is mans best friend when working on a car
Hey mate thanx heaps for the help!
I dont think the terminals are shorted, as all of the electricals in the car work fine when the car is set to accesory.
I couldnt find any melted wires.
I reconnected the air regulator hose and tried to turn it over again and now it is doing the same as it did last night before the BANG (starter motor is clicking over and over but no ignition)
when jump-starting a VL (or any fuel injected car) you shouldn't connect the negative to the battery.. you should attach it something on the motor that is grounded. That way you don't overload the ECU which has a direct conection to the battery.
Atleast thats what i've been told.. and done it like that ever since without a problem.
possibly the motor backfired through the intake and the air regulator hose was loose and came off?
when i did a power steering conversion i left off one of the two individual wires to the ignition switch and it was cranking, went bang, and smoke coming out of the air filter! checked the wires, started first go.
anyways the positive (red) should go to the positive on the battery, and the earth (black) just connect to the bracket on the motor (drivers side front) - the one you could put a chain through if you were taking it out. never had trouble doing it that way.
Yes the regulator hose was VERY loose i now observe, i tried cranking it over again and now it just kinda clicks over and over with no sign of ignition whatsoever.
You should NEVER connect jumper cables with the donor car running. It's voltage could be up around 14v, while the "dead" car could be 10v or less. This difference in voltage could send a spike through the "dead" car. Like others have said, connect the negative on the "dead" car to a good earth on the engine. Start the car donor after all cables are connected.
If you can't find any melted wires or blown fuses - try again?
Batteries contain hydrogen gas, very explosive. You do not connect the negative cable to the negative battery terminal of the dead vehicle because there is a very good chance the sparks will ignite the hydrogen gas and cause an explosion. By connecting the cable to the engine block, you significantly lower the chances of a battery explosion.
It has nothing to do with overloading ECU's.
Jump starting is really very simple, but if it isn't done correctly, you can do some major damage, to both yourself and the car.
A page that tells the correct way of jump starting a vehicle.
http://www.nsc.org/library/facts/batjump.htm
Mick
Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
Quote:
Originally Posted by MonstaS4
You should NEVER connect jumper cables with the donor car running. It's voltage could be up around 14v, while the "dead" car could be 10v or less. This difference in voltage could send a spike through the "dead" car. Like others have said, connect the negative on the "dead" car to a good earth on the engine. Start the car donor after all cables are connected.?
I have always been told to let the donor car idle and stablize first, otherwise you have the old battery "sharing" the power when you start it, and risk a spike when the donar car is starting?
I use the special jumper leads which are supposed to protect both cars from that sort of thing anyway, and connect the (+)ve teminal on the dead car first, and then the (-)ve. Done it heaps of times with no probs.
Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
My mate had a similar problem with his VL was going sweet then he stopped it and it wouldnt start thought it might have been the AFM changed it and it still didnt kick over tried fuel pump and everything it was all working didnt have a clue.
ended up being the guts f his dizzy were stuffed when we got it started it only ran for like 40 sec then die.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ijd
HOw bout you take the battery out of the VN and put it in the VL to see if the VL is still ok and starts.
Very good idea. Especially after the "bang". Could have knackered the battery.
Though the original problem doesn't sound like it was a battery problem as it was turning over, but no fire. I would check the CAS, or even the coil. If they are both reasonably old then either of them could be knackered and produce the same result.
hey all, thankyou VERY MUCH to everyone who contributed to this thread! and go **** urself if you didnt (well maybe not, but yeah u should at least feel bad).
Update: I fixed it! the problem seemed to be in the air reg hose, so i bought some new connections and clamped the hose down real tight now she kicks over first time everytime. I am happy as happy can be atm. Neways cyaz im off to go for a drive for no real reason lol, just cos i can now haha.
well done man.. but i dont see how the air reg hose would have caused it to explode and have gas go everywhere :-/
another good tip is that the *dead* car should have its lights on before attaching the positive to the battery and negative to the chassis. Then the *dead* car can be started and having the lights on can also prevent power spikes and protect the ecu a lot more.
