My RB30det VL keeps overheating when I give it a bit of stick or take over 4500rpm a couple of times. I hooked up the electric fan from the A/C to the front of the radiator, that helped the running temp, but as soon as I start opening it up, and drive full boost, I can watch the temp needle fly past full! (as in off the guage) then if I just drive it easily, without stopping and let the air flow through and cool it down, the needle slowly comes back down to normal temp again. So I dont know weather its the VL cooling system, or the engine itself, ie water galleries, thermostat etc. Has anyone had this problem running an RB30det in a VL? And is the factory VL radiator ok to use? Any help greatly appreciated. Cheers, scott.

check your thermostat, the same thing happen to my mate and he got it check up it turn out the his thermostat was blocked

get the radiator checked. i changed everything on mine and it was the radiator.doh! i now have a big 4 core in the standard end tanks. its unreal. to test if its your radiator just go up a hill. if it gets hot straight away your radiator is ****

i had a problem not so long as many people on here would know lol. i got my radiator cleaned installed a new thermostat everything. have u bled the cooling system? i did this with mine and also check on idle that there is pressure in the radiator pipe like it will get harder as it gets hotter. also check to see if there is no blockages including radiator and thermostat as already said and make sure theres no leaks anywhere. also check ya cooling fan i had 2 12 inch thermos at the front of the radiator with a stuffed clutch fan and it was still over heating. i put another 1 in it works sweet the way u tell how i found out was that i noticed alot more air blow thru the fan. also make sure u use the shroud aswell ok manz fans useless with out the shroud. with a good fan u hardly need the thermos i wasted money on them lol dont use them now but there still mounted in front of my radiator for a rainy day or should i say hot day. also 2 12 inch thermos plus 800watt amp and 12 inch subs cranking = alternator stress.

Cheers for the replies guys, I will check the thermostat again, and maybe replace the radiator, I noticed it is only a two core radiator, I dont know if you guys get them over in aussie, but we have them, there are quite a few 3 litre VLs running them, but I think they were mainly designed for the ****ty 2 litre versions we get in NZ. But would upgrading to a 3-4 core with the electric, and factory fans going, fix that problem completely? Because it is getting f*@kin hot!.... But I suppose the twin cam head, and the extra height could be the difference??

make sure you radiator does not have a PHAT crack through it go down to Kmart tyre and auto and have them pressure test your radiator 10 buck test they put a plunger like donger where you fill up the top of the radiator and start pumping to pressurise the system, this can / would should where cracks are when water comes pissing out - thus - there is your prob

yer got a pressure test this is how i found my leaking heater hose. also the NA and Turbo model radiators are different i found this out myself wen my radiator was getting cleaned i used a NA Radiator as a run around and noticed it was alot thinner then the VL turbo radiator. is ur cam timing and engine timing alrite aswell.

your prob is the radiator.even the 3 row isnt good enough when your making big power and street driving

Sweet, I'll see if I can sus a decent radiator, thanks for the replies.

My mate had the same prod in his wrk it was all good till he got on boost it would turn the warning light on turned out he had a blown head gasket