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Diagram for Vac lines for VL heater / Air con controls.

Started by carcrazy · 17 Aug 2004 · 45 replies

Preserved from CalaisTurbo (partial recovery). Original authors and dates are shown; archived members are not current Holdcom accounts.

carcrazyArchived member
Since everybody wants to know this here it is Number three (3) Goes into the recirculation valve right near the blower fan. Number four (4) Goes through the firewall and connects to the engine (Vac supply) Number five (5) Goes to a small one way valve (White and black round thing) on the drivers side near the firewall and disapears behind the heater box. Number eight (8) goes to a actuator near the steering coloum with a rod and a lever on it, its close to the front of the dash and i think the lever pushes down. Number nine (9) goes to a actuator behind the ciggie lighter area. Everything else has a rubber blocking teet on it, all up i think there was four. Ill put this in technical for future reference by others too..... Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
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VLishesArchived member
Thanks carcrazy, helped heaps, all hoses in my car but one were mising the number tags which obviously disintigrated, tho it's strange, I can't seem to get cold air to come in via the vents even tho the switch is on COLD it's slightly warm.
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VL_JOHNArchived member
Sounds. like your heater valve is stuck open slightly VLishes. The slide switch that controls hot/cold or red/blue, isn't vacuum controlled by those hoses. It works on a mechanical cable and linkage that joins onto the heater valve/tap which is on the lefthand side of the heater box under the dash. Either the cable needs adjusting on the linkage at the end where the valve is, so that it closes the valve fully,or the valve itself is faulty and needs replacing. I can't remeber if there is an adjustment for the cable on the linkage, but if there isn't you can bend the cable slightly to increase/decrease slack in it. I haven't actually done the adjustment on a VL before, but I've done it on other cars and its worked.
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VLishesArchived member
Yeah I bent the rod towards controls so it gets pushed all the way back when the controls is pushed to COLD, so like 5 mm of play made a big difference.
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VL-AeroArchived member
a few tags fell off my lines... can my aircon stop working due to hoses in wrong place? im talking behind the selecter where they all meet
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VLishesArchived member
Just follow the hoses and see where they go. My air con stopped working a while ago, I think it needs a re-gas tho I think the whole unit is whacked now because I haven't used it in years.
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BaxArchived member
Should come in handy if I was actually bothered to go tearing through my dash Might just do the slack ass way and pay for it. Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
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VLishesArchived member
tearing thru the dash is half the fun!!!
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frag_dogArchived member
Thanks carcrazy, this artical was a life saver.
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SteveArchived member
I accidently disconnected a few hoses when installing my cd player in december, so last nite i spent bloody AGES doing trial and error figuring out what hoses go where, coz all but one of the tags had come off but i eventually got it going nicely. My previous attempt at trying to fix these resulted in it hissing when turned off and on a few other positions Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
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VLTWhite1Archived member
Quote: Originally Posted by carcrazy Everything else has a rubber blocking teet on it, all up i think there was four. Are these rubber blocking teets are supposed to be on all the vacant spots left on the back of the vent controller where all the hoses plug into ?
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carcrazyArchived member
Quote: Are these rubber blocking teets are supposed to be on all the vacant spots left on the back of the vent controller where all the hoses plug into ? yes
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harripidgArchived member
so what do you do when your arcon and heater dont come on at all and the fuse for it has melted into the fuse holder?? I cant get power to it at all!!! NO FAN or nuffin!!!
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VLTWhite1Archived member
Quote: Originally Posted by carcrazy yes Ta. Would probably explain my problem.....there ain't none there. Gotta love this freakin' wagon !
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BundaboyArchived member
Can anyone show me a picture of the cable that operates the temperature control. After I got my CD player installed, the temperature lever does not slide all the way up like its jammed and now it doesnt go as cold as it use to when I select the coldest setting. Could it be that a wire or maybe the antenna cable is jamming the cable for the temperature control?
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VLTWhite1Archived member
Just fixed it !!!!!! Only three of my hoses had numbers, so alternating the other two blank ones wasn't a problem, but it was still hissing. I had a new aircon control unit in stock so I tried that and problem fixed. Must have been a crack or leak in that circular piece where all the hoses plug into. Also, both the new one in the wagon and the one in my SL (which has never been played with since new) don't have blanking plugs on the open ports. Maybe they appeared on earlier build VL's but it doesn't seem to make a difference whether you block off the empty ports or not. This also solved the "no air under acceleration problem" I had too, downside is the new control unit cost me $250. Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
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VLTWhite1Archived member
Quote: Originally Posted by Bundaboy Can anyone show me a picture of the cable that operates the temperature control. After I got my CD player installed, the temperature lever does not slide all the way up like its jammed and now it doesnt go as cold as it use to when I select the coldest setting. Could it be that a wire or maybe the antenna cable is jamming the cable for the temperature control? More like the CD player installers drilled or riveted into the side of your control unit or didn't refit it properly when they put it back in. The cable sheath has a plastic lug in the end of it that slots into a screw (that hold the circular piece on) to hold it in place. The cable then is just a push fit over the lug on the side of the lever. After looking at mine, they came bloody close to drilling through the circuit board on the right side.
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nathoArchived member
just another thing, if you have "no air when accelerating", it could be a problem with the one way valve (in the vacuum line behind the inlet manifold) or a leak to the vacuum canister "ball" at the front of the car. check all hoses and the valve.
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BundaboyArchived member
Quote: Originally Posted by VLTWhite1 More like the CD player installers drilled or riveted into the side of your control unit or didn't refit it properly when they put it back in. The cable sheath has a plastic lug in the end of it that slots into a screw (that hold the circular piece on) to hold it in place. The cable then is just a push fit over the lug on the side of the lever. After looking at mine, they came bloody close to drilling through the circuit board on the right side. All fixed. I pulled me dash apart looking for what was wrong and the cable that goes to the heater box was out of its clip somewhere in the middle of the cable. I just clipped it back in and now I have freezing cold airconditioning.
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danny82Archived member
when i've got the heater on idling works fine when i hit boost so does my heater ????????????????????????
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