I stuffed my radiator in my crash so i'm chasing a better 1 than the standard copper cored item. I looked at a R32 GTS half cut at a wrecker, measured up the radaitor to find to should fit in a VL and it's a plastic tank aluminium core job with very dense fins, although the core is thinner. Weight is an issue this is why i want to go this way. I might also be able to get a R32 GTR radiator. Has any1 fitted a GTS or GTR radiator into a VL or dimention and thickness of the GTR item??? Any other aluminium radiators fit, other than the $800 for a proper race radiator??? Cheers.

Quote: Originally Posted by twinvl I stuffed my radiator in my crash so i'm chasing a better 1 than the standard copper cored item. I looked at a R32 GTS half cut at a wrecker, measured up the radaitor to find to should fit in a VL and it's a plastic tank aluminium core job with very dense fins, although the core is thinner. Weight is an issue this is why i want to go this way. I might also be able to get a R32 GTR radiator. Has any1 fitted a GTS or GTR radiator into a VL or dimention and thickness of the GTR item??? Any other aluminium radiators fit, other than the $800 for a proper race radiator??? Cheers. Hey yea aussie desert coolers radiators contact {03}94704449 in melb ur neck of the woods are $690 not sure how many core they are got one not using it yet. They are a biggin neat welds and the standard radiator gap fits snug. Perfect to keep ur engine temp down.

Darren, ive been looking into this lately too, i know some of the late model commodores had an alloy radiator, but all the inlet/outlets are in the wrong positions. Not sure if or how much would be involved in getting the tanks swapped to suit. Probably end up costing as much as an alloy desert cooler in the end. If the skyline radiators fit into the standard location, i dont think it would be too hard to make up some mounts to get one in there. I beleive the R31 RB30 radiators were alloy too, not sure on the size of them. Really any skyline radiator from the R31 to the R34 should have the right inlet/outlets, so it would come down to which one fitted best or was easiest to mount. Next time i have some free time i was going to look into it a bit further.

Alloy radiators are bad news, My capri has a PWR 5 core but has suffered from "Electrolisis" I think thats how you spell it, stray current causes the radiator to crack. And my old man just recently bought a brand new copper core radiator with plastic end tanks to replace his factory fitted ford aluminium core plastic tanks on his AU Falcon, Again electrolisis was the culprit. Took it to a radiator specialist and he reckons he sells 10 copper cores a week to replace alloy radiators because of the electrolisis problem, copper radiators don't suffer from it as much apparently. I'd be getting a copper core job off Aussie Desert Coolers, bit pricy but well worth it.

i had an aussie one.it was a POS.sorry to say

yea damn Ive never heard a negative thing about em till now I hate when you go out buy something thats surpose to be all the goods and then you hear the down side and a better soloution! Grr I'll just have to find out!

All skylines run an alloy core, plastic tank arangment. They are skinny compared to the VL radiator but have a slightly larger surface area. If you think a stock Nissan Skyline radiator will cool better than a new VL radiator than I think you will be mistaken, they will cool much the same. If you want better maybe a 4 core dessert cooler, will offer benefits. If a stock radiator in working order can't keep the car at a stable temp i say something is wrong. Waste of money upgrading radiator unless your in the tropics somewhere. Electrolisis in alloy radiators should only cause problems if you run the wrong coolant, don't change it at the specified intervals or mix different coolant types causing stray current. Mick

Thanks alot for that info mick Im going to give aussie desert coolers a call and get the low down on coolant to use and etc. What coolant do you guys use? any good recommended brands?

go to that joint at woonona on the highway.thats where i go.my radiator is the best

yep south coast radiators i think theyre called. on the main road just south of the RSL. great work and cheap too. good bloke who owns the place aswell heaps friendly and always glad to help.

Quote: Originally Posted by RB30-POWER If a stock radiator in working order can't keep the car at a stable temp i say something is wrong. Waste of money upgrading radiator unless your in the tropics somewhere. Unless you're on a race track like i am.... Even with the non turbo engine on a cool day the temp just keeps going up and up, lap after lap. Only had it boil once though on a real hot day. Lucky i'm only doing 4 lap races. Pratice is another thing, i'm limited to engine temp then. I need to setup some better ducting and sealing up the gaps would help too. I need aluminium for the weight reduction, so copper is out. I just want to try something different, and inexpencive as i'm very short on cash atm. I saw the r31 skyline was alloy and i'm considering it too but it's lower on the list. A r32 unit looks alot better to me. Any1 know sizes or can measure a GTR radiator for me?? Cheers.

I think the biggest problem with VL's is getting the hot air out of the engine bay. A few bonnet vents would go along way to help cooling, but might look a bit ...... Do you run an oil cooler at the moment? Mick

R31 radiators have the hoses on opposite sides whereas VLs have them both on the driver's side which is why they have a baffle in them which tends to rust out.

electrolosis if its in your car will even destroy a brass one just takes a little longer.. The coolers your talking about are way too thick cause there going to over heat ,Ive built thousands a radiators and never had a come back.. nor thicker than 70mm ,I use a 2x26mm tube (2 row)same setup as the V8 supercars and never had overheating problems.. aluminium radiators are far better than brass in all aspects ,weight, heat transfer ,custom flowing (manufacturer tricks). It pays to use someone who treats your car like its there own and not just "yeah mate build another radiator for a commodore" hurry up get it out collect the money.. electrolosis is a pain in the arse ,I can be the first to ammit that if the current is over the recomended 0.005 ohms your going to have trouble, under that youll be fine,the worse it is the quicker it'll eat your core.. They say that it can eat a radiator with in a week.. Guys dont think or be misled into thinking aluminium cores are sh!t they are far from that, if you have the right tools for the checking, obvistly if you have more than the recomended reading , you will be on the straight and narrow road trying to chase the electrical problem, mostly in accident repaired cars where the wire may of been stripped and touching metal somewhere, sometimes a bad earth, even sh!ty coolants.. food for thought cheers LeRoy

Just out of interest... Going through all the cars at work the other day, looked under the bonnett of a BA Falcon, the radiator in it is a single core alloy unit, about 15mm thick at a guess. Asked another mechanic about it who used to work for Ford, said they came out in the AU, and all the falcons use them, 6, 8, and turbo 6, and he recons they never run hot, Said it is to do with the design of the tubes in the radiator.

here you go heres another forum about the problem.. There is a link in there that explains everything you need to know STRAY CURRENT PROBLEMS HERE (http://ausrotary.dntinternet.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=40620&highlight=electrolosis+radiators) cheers

Hey BTR dude! On that link one of those guys says to use a lead off the aluminium radiator to stop the current charge going through the radiator. What would you recomment to use by doing this to solve my problem? Thanks heaps for the advice about it so far its helped me alot!

Quote: Originally Posted by ERO30T Hey BTR dude! On that link one of those guys says to use a lead off the aluminium radiator to stop the current charge going through the radiator. What would you recomment to use by doing this to solve my problem? Thanks heaps for the advice about it so far its helped me alot! Hi I dont think it would work because your radiator is already touching the body any way with the nuts and bolts holding up, if you have rubber mounts then give it a go. You need to have the ohm reader prope in the water not touching the sides or bottom and earth strap it to see if it makes a different reading, also have a friend turn the lights on then off see if there is a change, then high beams, indicators brakes etc etc etc if you get a current change that may possibly be your problem. BUT like i said before you will always have a current due to the metal minerals that are in the coolants and the constant flowing against the metals of the engines will cause a electrostatic charge.. Just in the same way when you rub your feet on the carpet and zap your mate with your finger.. cheers HOPE THIS HELPS

cheers seems like no real fix. I was thinking that yea if the radiators touching the chasis I may get the charge anyway.

ground your core if you have plastic tanks/rubber mounts. and leroy, ohms is measure of resistance not current.