Back to shop ↗
THE HOLDEN COMMODORE FORUM

HOLDCOM Community

Built around the cars. Kept alive by the people.

+ Start a discussion
Holden Commodores gathered at Holdcom
Forum Home›Technical help
Technical help

painting own car,good job possible?

Started by ANDOS06 · 19 June 2004 · 36 replies

Preserved from CalaisTurbo. Original authors and dates are shown; archived members are not current Holdcom accounts.

ANDOS06Archived member
what's the best way to do a semi good paint job yourself.i just want to paint the car white (it's already white)what paint should i use and do i spray clear at the end?
0 likes
AnthoArchived member
It would help if you had all the right tools or had access to them, the key to painting is all in the preperation, if you just wanted a light respray you could probably just take off the clear and a bit of the paint with some wet and dry then spray over the top and yes you should definetely spray clear on it in the end. I wouldnt trust myself with the body though, ive done the bumpers and around the windows, which turned out good. Dont quote me on this though im probably wrong.
0 likes
ANDOS06Archived member
yeah i'll get a compressor and spray gun if it's worth it
0 likes
HYBRID VLArchived member
can sum1 put up a list of stuff to use like solvents and paints and tools and wat primer and brand to use on wat parts and any other additives and everything please.
0 likes
ANDOS06Archived member
exactly what i need hybrid
0 likes
sikcalaisArchived member
theres a lot in painting a car but if you dare to do it yourself here you go. repair-CAM ultra fine glazing putty (bog) to do your small repairs- sand the dinted area with 80 preferably back to metall so the filler sticks better. block the filler down with 80 then 180 till the dint feels flat.do not dampen the filler with anything as it is porus primer-go to a spies hecker dealer as thats the cheapest i have found in 2-pk and still good and ask for enough hi-fill primer to cover your repairs, prep about 20cms around your repairs with 320 dry, cover the repairs with primer, about 3 to 4 coats. preparation- guide coat repairs with gmh black, block repairs with 240 dry or 400 wet, reguide coat reapirs if used 240, then rubb the whole car down with 320 dry on an orbatall sander (u need things like soft backing pads and a variable speed sander to do it dry for a good result), or use 600 or 800 wet to rub the car down, get some 3M scotch brite to scuff up all youe edges and nicky cranny bits, with the stone chips use the filler and wipe a bit in with an aplicator and wipe the excess off then block the area with 800 wet.whites do not have clear as it is a solid 2-k wick is a colour clear, instead of clear pigment it is colour pigment so just rub it till there is no orange peel and its dull, when completed wash the car, leave it overnight to dry or blow off the water from all gaps. masking- i use 3M tape 3/4 and 2", but im not going to explain how to mask because there is to many different ways and its an art to mask properly. but basically take as much acessaries off your car as you can and mask whatever is left. paint- theres way to much to explain here so ill keep it short, prepsol the car down with wax and grease remover, wipe on then wipe off with dry rag till completly dry, mix your colour 2 to 1 with hardner and 10% reducer, put a light coat over the car so it gives it hooks so to speak for the next coat to hang on to, then put 2 nice coats over the top of that, to hard to explain what kind of coats to put on to avoid runs and get a nice flat finish so good luck. you must use paint strainers to stop a lot of dirt in the paint, an oven if u choose to (very wise to use one) tak rag to wipe over the car before your first coat to stop dirt, mask for you so u dont die,lol and if you can get one a paint suite i have left a lot out but thats 5 years worth of experience and learning wich i cant explain so good luck with what i gave you, what ive told you is just the very basics and just for a basic spray job ie. small repairs and fair paint to start with if you have any q's just pm me, cheers and best of luck steve P.S yes its early in the morning and i have nothen to do so i CAN right a f***in long reply,lol
0 likes
sikcalaisArchived member
oh yeah as for spray gun you can use a sucktion fed gun or gravity fed, use a gun with a 1.4mm fluid tip for a flatter finish. and if you go to a paint dealer they will supply you with prepsol, paint, hardner, filters, tak rag, reducer, mixing cups, tape, sand paper. u can use PPG, SIKKENS, SPIES HECKER, GLASURIT, DUPONT, MIPA, STANDOX cant think of any paint systems but i think youll find that spies hecker is the cheapest and all are very good paint, good luck
0 likes
HYBRID VLArchived member
Could u tell me what is the best HP compressor to use and so on aswell please and also with my compressor im getting like water coming thru it i was told to undo a drain screw at the bottom i done that and still water coming out why is this happening i was told i need something called a water trap or somthin. aslo i was told to use somethin called flex aid on the bumpers
0 likes
ERO30TArchived member
You also need a air regulator on the compressor to maintain the same air pressure otherwise you will keep running out of air and have to wait for it to build up again. Ive done a backyardy like that and it will frustrate you and take forever. Im a spraypainter and your best bet is to get someone that has half a clue to help you out. Or you will be forever asking questions its not hard just knowing what to do is the killer.
0 likes
OVL087Archived member
hybrid u will need at least a 13cfm compressor with a 50 litre receiver/tank get a regulator on it , and keep about 60-70psi at the reg. yes there is a water trap , u should drain it everyday , be carefull if ur buying a 2ndhand compressor ,if its been sitting around for a long time , the water that pools inside can and does rust around the releif valve. it may be easier for u to use a gravity gun , so u dont have any troubles with dragging the bottom of the pot over what u have just painted (learners have a tendancy to do that with a conventional pot gun) do as sik calais has said. and if u are bogging anything , make sure u take it back to bare metal , around the ding that ur bogging , bog doesnt stick well to paint. ruff it up really well. im actually in the middle of doing my car some of the prices i paid are ppg prima (primer) and the hardener , which i got myself the accelerated hardener , because of the conditions in which im spraying my stuff. it came to $214 @ trade price. i have a 1 lite of Debeer 1k plastic primer $30 Dupont 120s (2k clear) one of tyhe cheaper clears , but stil very good quality $111 plus gst and $75 plus gst for the hardener. and u should also buy urself some anti-static wipe for when u spray plastics , coz when u sand them they become very staticy , and when u spray them , dust and crap just acts like a magnet and sticks all over it. so this wipe de-statics it. 1 litre for about $20 these prices are all thru my work and are trade prices all other material , thinners tack rags , everything else i get free from work Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
0 likes
sikcalaisArchived member
anti static is for bare unpainted plastics as the mould release agent they use still seeps out of the plastics and causes static, no u dont need flex agent as flex agent is only used in very flexable things, vl bars arent very flexible at all, PPG suplly a primer and clear product called omni autothane wich is hs (hi solid) and trade for a 5litre primer kit is $138.00 and 6litre clear kit is from memory $150.00 so id go with that as i have used it plenty of times and its awesome stuff, you obvioulsy dont need clear though
0 likes
OVL087Archived member
sik cal i agree that anti static wipe is best for unpainted plastics , but if he sands his bumpers pretty hard , thru the paint etc then id still use it. do u rate that omni stuff do ya? i have the d839 prima and deltron hardeners
0 likes
sikcalaisArchived member
the deltron system is better than the omni for sure but just in case he hasnt got enough money then the omni is the way to go. and yeah it cant hurt at all to use antistatic but its not nescessary to use it unless its a new plastic but yeah it defenently cant hurt. OVL087 you have bought a good paint we used deltron at work for a couple of years and it is VERY good stuff. P.S. ANDOS06 make sure you get a fast hardner for your primer and normal hardner for your topcoat, dont get slow or fast for the topcoat and get normal reducer for both, cheers steve
0 likes
phunArchived member
Ej, sorry to hijack this thread, but im spraying my car also, i just wanna ask a question. Most of the car dosnt need a respray, but the roof and some area's of the boot need respraying due to sun damage..(was sitting in the backyeard for a while)..so im gonna go ahed and spray the whole car. the damage isn't to bad either, but it does need a respray.. do i sand it back to bare metal or just take a bit off ? and do the same amount on the rest of the car ? or ? ( i havent got the slightest clue about spray painting cars - but im a painter lol) Any help would be very much appreciated Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
0 likes
HYBRID VLArchived member
man its sounds so complicated and i thought i was gunna prime my car and spray it in 1 weekend lol..... maybe cause i dunno nofin about spraying a car lol.
0 likes
phunArchived member
you're telling me ! i read what sikcalais said..understood about 30% of it..lol.. gotta get someone with a clue to spraying cars to help me :s
0 likes
sikcalaisArchived member
my advice is get someone who knows, ive seen some people who arent painters paint some stuff and youd almost blow chunks when you see it, same with a lot of tradesman painters, its very complex to do it right. phun with your car im assuming it is a metallic as the original paint on vl's are acrilic the acrilic doesnt have much uv protection so it does break down, so i would strip the boot and roof to bare metall (only if your using 2-pak) because the 2-pak will bite into the acrilic and fry up and after a while shrink back, if your using acrilic just sand the original paint back so its smooth and scratched up, use 800 wet, i would strip it back to metall either way if you want to do it properly. any more Q's pm me happy to answer, steve
0 likes
OVL087Archived member
sikcal only the best for me hehehehe Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
0 likes
OVL087Archived member
phun even with 2pak over the original acryllic system , there is no real need to go back to bare , just a proper thourough sand back with 180-240 grit paper , and u should be set
0 likes
phunArchived member
Yea, i thought the same thing, im just respraying the same colour and not all area's of the car need to be sprayed, but i will be stripping the bonnent/boot/doors/lighs and spray them seperatly, also getting the plastics done professionally. so should i use 800 wet or 180-240grit paper lol ? and when i sand should i just sand it back so it's smooth and still silver? or ? thanks for the help guys..much appericiated !
0 likes
Sign in or create an account to reply. New members are welcome—no purchase or old CT account needed.

Who’s online

0 members and 1 guest active in the last 15 minutes

No signed-in members active right now. Guests are welcome to browse.

Visitors Today11

33,602 threads, 484,230 posts and 24,897 images saved from CalaisTurbo.
As at . Recovery is continuing.