High did a search on the forum but could not find info on how to do front wheel bearings... anyone that could give me a quick description step by step on how to maintenance them would be much appreciated

Maintenance is not required, however you may need to replace them if they are old/worn. Off the top of my head this is how to do it, but I'm not looking at my car while I write this so some things may be wrong or in the wrong order. 1. Take the wheel off 2. Remove the dust cap (pry it off with a thin screwdriver and a hammer) 3. Remove split pin and then remove castle nut 4. Remove the outer bearing and the retainer thing, noting it's orientation 5. Remove brake disc 6. Remove inner bearing (note that it is different to the outer bearing for reassembly) 7. Pack the new ones with grease. There are different ways to do this, you can get a grease packing tool or you can get a wad of grease on your hand and roll the bearing around in it. 8. Reassembly is the reverse of removal. I think the castle nut is to be done up hand tight and no more. Use a new split pin for reassembly. Knock the dust cap back in using a rubber mallet or something similar, a hammer may dent it.

before removing the disc you also need to remove the caliper and its mountings, it is held on by 2 19mm bolts that can be rather tight, a rattle gun comes in handy here but a breaker bar should do the trick i cant remember if i needed to seperate the caliper for reassembly though, its not hard if you need to though

Quote: Originally Posted by Jazza before removing the disc you also need to remove the caliper and its mountings, it is held on by 2 19mm bolts that can be rather tight, a rattle gun comes in handy here but a breaker bar should do the trick i cant remember if i needed to seperate the caliper for reassembly though, its not hard if you need to though Yeah take off the caliper and put a piece of wood between it so it doesn't close, or it will be a bitch to get back on. As far as doing it up goes, do up the nut tight enough until it drags a little, then back it off till it just stops dragging, then go 1/4 turn back more, then put in the split pin. Has worked for me everytime -David EDIT: Pay attention to the rubber seal on the back as well - if its buggered it will let dust in and fuck your bearings. Best to replace it even if its only a little split. Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Quote: Originally Posted by Jazza before removing the disc you also need to remove the caliper and its mountings, it is held on by 2 19mm bolts that can be rather tight, a rattle gun comes in handy here but a breaker bar should do the trick i cant remember if i needed to seperate the caliper for reassembly though, its not hard if you need to though Oh yeah I forgot that part Breaker bar will work alright to remove the mounting bolts. When putting the caliper back on, use a g-clamp or small vice to push the piston back slightly in its bore (but not so much that the master cylinder overflows). Make sure the pads go back on the same way they came off. Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

i tighten the castle nut up so that there is the slightest bit of foward back movement of the rotor, and it has minimal drag on it... i've heard from some people that they should be cheked and readjusted soon after being done.... ?

you shouldnt need to recheck the nut and the wheel bearing tightness. all you have to do is do the nut up and give the rotor a few spins, this seats the wheel bearings, then back the nut off a bit until the rotor spins freely for a few revolutions, this usually around a quarter of a turn of the nut. this should do it. also one other thing, whenever i do wheel bearings, i always replace the bearing seal. these are cheap and more often than not, you cause a bit of damage to the rubber while removing. after all the seals are a lot cheaper to replace than the bearings and races good luck

seems pretty straight forward will tackle this tomorrow... don't even know if there is anything wrong just want to make sure...