Back to shop ↗
THE HOLDEN COMMODORE FORUM

HOLDCOM Community

Built around the cars. Kept alive by the people.

+ Start a discussion
Holden Commodores gathered at Holdcom
Forum Home›VL Commodore
VL Commodore

Engine Hot = Car Not Starting. Need Help!

Started by Ktulu · 11 June 2004 · 15 replies

Preserved from CalaisTurbo. Original authors and dates are shown; archived members are not current Holdcom accounts.

KtuluArchived member
Hi, Any help with this would be very much appreciated... The Car: Holden Commodore VL Turbo, S2. The Problem: If I've been driving the car for 15 minutes or more, and the engine is nice and hot, then I turn her off, the engine won't restart until it has cooled down. So I get stuck in places with the bonnet up waiting for the temperature to come down. The starter motor is fine, still kicking over and sounds good... fuel pumps are also in working order... so I'm thinking it's possibly something electrical. Could it be the CAS? The CAS rubber is a little corroded, but I taped it all up long ago, and the CAS wiring seems fine. Or would it be something to do with the distributor? Also, spark leads and plugs are all brand new. The Solution: You tell me. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance, Luke.
0 likes
SLY-PSIArchived member
Maybe the hot engine is making the glue melt on the tape? A new cas maybe.
0 likes
`Bolt~On`Archived member
Cas
0 likes
MurderCityArchived member
CAS or the little power transistor plug thing near the dizzy. Does the car cut out when it gets hot at all? If it does its probably the transistor, otherwise my guess is CAS.
0 likes
KtuluArchived member
Well, usually when the CAS ****s up, the car cuts out while driving doesn't it? That's why I wasn't sure whether it was the CAS or not. Still, I'll wait for some more opinions... and then decide on what to do. Luckily, I grabbed a new CAS from a wreckers last week, so I'll have to grab my multimeter and my Gregory's book and go do some amature mechanics again, just to be sure it is the CAS. If it is the CAS... I can just cut the old one off and wire the new one up, right? As long as it's a clean connection, it should be okay, yeah?
0 likes
51_tkoArchived member
cas for sure..
0 likes
sikcalaisArchived member
mine does that cause my extractors are so close to the starter so the starter actuator will not actuate, thats my opinion anyway ps.what is cas?
0 likes
51_tkoArchived member
yeah u got an 8, cas stands for crank angle sensor.
0 likes
sikcalaisArchived member
ah ha, cheers man
0 likes
BaxArchived member
Coils sometimes play up if they heat up, leads do too.
0 likes
BOOSTnWGnArchived member
Quote: Originally Posted by Ktulu If it is the CAS... I can just cut the old one off and wire the new one up, right? As long as it's a clean connection, it should be okay, yeah? You can't just cut off a crank angle sensor. you have to pull out the dizzy and then pull it aprt to get the cas out. there is a thread on here somewhere that tells you how it is done. Do a search and you will find it. Putting the new CAS in is easy just make sure that you mark the Dizzy before you pull it out cause I forgot to mark mine. So when i put it back in I was out by like 5 teeth and the car wouldn't go. Then ya have to get Top Dead Center and it's a pain in the arse. Good luck with it.
0 likes
OldGoldArchived member
Yeah, coils don't like the heat either. Try and bum one off a mate's car, would only take you two mins to check if it's that. When it won't start, put the computer onto diagnostics and see if it brings up a code for the CAS.
0 likes
jordyArchived member
Quote: Originally Posted by BOOSTnWGn you have to pull out the dizzy and then pull it aprt to get the cas out. Nah you don't need to pull the dizzy out to do it, just leave the dizzy attached to the head when you do it so then you don't have problems with the timing being so far out.
0 likes
duz360Archived member
prior to my stock fuel pump ****ting its self i had the same prob
0 likes
AnthoArchived member
Mine was doing the same thing thought it was the CAS, got it checked she was all good, checked everything I could think of all that has been mentioned and she still did it. Found out my water pump was stuffed and once I replaced that it stopped doing it. Its just cause the car was getting hotter than it should and the parts were all good just 1 or more of them obviously didnt like the heat. So Im not saying its you water pump, but if all else fails you should check the cooling system.
0 likes
BillArchived member
when a water pumps about to go usually it start making noises (hi pitch squeals) and when it does go your car will begin to overheat severely, i don't think it's waterpump. if it were the coil it would be cutting out on u after the car has heated up while your on the road driving, not just when you go to restart it, this is a similar characteristic with the cas. My advice would be to run your ecu checks and see if crank angle sensor comes up, if not then i think sikcalais on the money with the starter motor solenoid, when these things **** themselves they won't close the circuit when they're hot, and since you say it's only doing it when you go to restart the car after warmed up ect, my money is on starter solenoid. good luck.
0 likes
Sign in or create an account to reply. New members are welcome—no purchase or old CT account needed.

Who’s online

0 members and 0 guests active in the last 15 minutes

No signed-in members active right now. Guests are welcome to browse.

Visitors Today4

33,602 threads, 484,230 posts and 18,368 images saved from CT

98.1% of indexed threads saved