my stock auto has probs shifting into 4th gear, it wont shift into 4th till it's warmed up and when it does (and this means every time) it makes a big thud sound and the car shakes.
i've come to the conclusion that the transmission is about to die but if anyone thinks i can save it please say how.
hey juz,
mine odes EXACTLY the same thing, wont take 4th till its hot, and when it does decide to shift up, it clunks and shakes through the driveline. Unfortunately, i don't know what causes this or what can be done, but if it helps, mine's been doing it for months and it hasn't gotten worse at all (touch wood).
i just keep my fluid topped up and thats it basically. (oh, and mine leaks pretty heavily too)
i'm guessing by the symptons your car is an NA.
The transmission won't shift into 4th unless the trans fluid has warmed up. (46 degrees C to be exact)
The bang and shuddering is the lock up plate in the torque converter applying then slipping it's guts out. Quick fix- unplug soleniod on side of bellhousing. Stops lock up plate from applying.
transman, can i post up one of your patented pics showing the location of the lockup solenoid to help the guy out? or should we just tell him to cut the blue wire in the auto computer loom under the dash and put a switch on it.......?
Post anything you like(cept those pics of me and well- you know). The lock up plate is f*$ked. No point in trying to apply it. It's probably making metal and crap and contaminating the rest of the trans.
If any NA guys get their transmissions rebuilt, I can show then how to modify the Lockup apply so it applies like a gear change (fake 5th). It makes the plates last longer due to less slip on application.
delete the O/D apply spring? i'll do that before i kill my transmission in a few months (supercharger) and put the manual in.
i'm going to do a bit of a trial on the old n/a box one friday night, see how much power it can take before it dies. will be good for future reference on the site here. taking an arbitrary amount of power (should be close to 120-125 rwkw) and a lot of mid-range torque i'll go and launch it hard till it start slipping, might even rake out second gear to see if it slips first.
but i do have a *large* tranny cooler on there from K & D, not sure how long that will help to prolong the life of the old girl.....
delete the spring shown in the picture, it will help the overdrive apply faster and harder. note that i haven't done this yet but paul says it works so it does.
Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
btw that image is drawn looking from the front of the gearbox on the passenger side. the o/d piston is pretty easy to see, it's the biggest thing on that corner.
SMcS removing that spring only helps 4-3 down change. Harder changes in to OD require a bigger piston set or more line pressure. Before ya kill the NA transmission I'll get you to throw in a Full Manual Valve Body (for R&D purposes). Some deal as before?
ummmm..... yeah? sounds fun! you think it will last any longer with a full manual? should shift pretty hard n sharp i would imagine..... will i still have overdrive? i'll pm you me address, it's changed since i did the shift kit.
if the wire is cut, or no current can flow through it (switch open) then overdrive doesn't apply at all. if it's closed, overdrive applies at speeds greater than 66 kph provided you don't have your foot on the floor.
that's what i've heard, don't know if it's true!
The overdrive cancel soleniod requires power to cancel OD. Don't cut any wires.
To prevent the lock clutch from shuddering when OD applies, unplug the wiring on the soleniod that is located on the bell housing (left hand side)
Quote:
Originally Posted by transman
The overdrive cancel soleniod requires power to cancel OD. Don't cut any wires.
To prevent the lock clutch from shuddering when OD applies, unplug the wiring on the soleniod that is located on the bell housing (left hand side)
Does that mean the gear box will just hold in third gear then? or will it go into 4th and just not apply the lock clutch?
Will Unplugging the wire cause anything else on the car to wear out faster?
Unplugging the soleniod on the bell housing prevents the lock up plate in the torque converter applying. The only down side will be some loss of cruise fuel economy. No other side effects.
so how to fix the problem with 4th gear not warmin up mine used to be fine then it started doin that so i changed boxes and the box i got now is worse, is there a quick and easy way of fixin the problem with the old box so it works better
Quote:
Originally Posted by transman
Unplugging the soleniod on the bell housing prevents the lock up plate in the torque converter applying. The only down side will be some loss of cruise fuel economy. No other side effects.
Is it hard to change the Lock up plate in the torque coverter or the whole torque converter itself if you have to?
