On my afm it has a knob on it saying air mixture, is this worth fiddling around with? does it have anything to do with the air/fuel ratio?

do a search i found plenty info when i asked

It is to fine tune, idle and closed loop air/fuel ratio's. Unless you know what you are doing, your best not to fiddle with this. Mick

i was told to hook up an oms metre and adjust it to 382oms

You are correct in saying that. The factory setting is 386ohms, or thereabouts. If someone has tampered with it, and your in doubt, set it back to the factory setting. Mick

i brought two afm of one of the uses one here they are both diffrent one is like my one that broke has wire that makes a triangle the a straight stick in side but the other is diffrent has a wire that is in a square and two sticks of metal that are twisted together any ideas?

Quote: Originally Posted by RB30-POWER You are correct in saying that. The factory setting is 386ohms, or thereabouts. If someone has tampered with it, and your in doubt, set it back to the factory setting. Mick The '382ohms setting for AFM's' would have to be one of the biggest wives tales for the VL. The setting depends on the condition of several parts on your car such as o2 sensor, AFM, spark plus etc. There is NO EASY way to get the mixtures right. You have to warm the car up (by driving it) then rev the car to 2000rpm and at the same time check the the leds on the computer, they (red and green) have to be flashing at the same time, if they are then you disconnect the TPS and the AAC valve (I think that's the one, I know it when I see it) then rev the car agian to 2000, check the leds. Now let the car idle, the leds should be flashing at the same time, if not adjust again.

Thats correct also spiritfc, But if you wanted the best starting point, you would start by setting the AirFlow meter to 386ohms, then tweak the closed loop operation. Because it shouldn't need much adjustment either way (+ or -) of the 386ohm mark, for optimal operation. Mick

ive ***d around with my AFM and had it set anywhere from about 100 - 1000ohms and the leds still flashed in sequence, so i dont think it does very much at all. With the car stopped or running, idle or high rpm, the reading changes bugger all from the 386ohms, or whatever you set it at. I just reset it back to 386 and left it. That AFM did die on me not too long after that so maybe it was stuffed all along. I might do some tests on the one in my car now and see if i get the same results.

i adjusted mine yesterday. plugged the mulitmeter in and it said 180 ohms! hrmmm i said, adjusted it to 380 and the car seriously idles beautifully now! nice and smooth and it got rid of the coughing and farting on idle. Took all of 1 minute to do! definately worth a check.

i hav found people saying it will only reset itself later, and it seems to be a load of trouble just for a little bit of fuel efficiency, im not gonna bother with this one guyz

Quote: Originally Posted by JuZi i hav found people saying it will only reset itself later, and it seems to be a load of trouble just for a little bit of fuel efficiency, im not gonna bother with this one guyz That's another wives tale! The screw on the AFM is there for a reason. If you buy the GMH manual and follow the steps EXACTLY then it does work and it doesn't reset later. If you do it properly you WILL notice an improvement not only in fuel economy but performance too.

BTW I have seen people on here saying they only get 200-300kmp/h to a tank. I get 600-650kmp/h to a tank that's a VL Turbo too. All I do is check/adjust the idle, timing and mixtures once a month, plus I change the oil, plugs and leads at the suggested intervals.

from which terminals should you set a reading of 380 ohms? thanx

1 and 6

I have heard the ohms reading too, also another way of checking the AFM is to measure voltage. Inbetween 1.5-3 volts is where its meant to be so I have heard. I set mine to 2.2 volts and took the roughness out of the idle and has increased my range per tank

i just bought a air:fuel ratio gauge that you have to make urself from **** smiths. does anyone know how accurate these are supposed to be? becuase it is currently reading around the 17:1 ratio which i guess is very lean! or what readings do the more accurate gauges display?

where are these terminals? is it the terminals on the cable connector to the afm? i'm confused!

yeh its the terminals on the afm which the plug goes into. Ok, disconnect the plug to the AFM, turn the key to ignition but do not turn on the engine. Now with ur multimeter, turn the dial to 200 in the 'resistance' area. Put one lead of the multimeter onto the pin on the far left of the AFM and the other lead of the multimeter on the far right. It doesnt matter which way aslong as they are touching. Now the multimeter should be showing a reading, say 300. Now, adjust the screw on the multimeter and u will see the displayed number change. Adjust this screw until the multimeter displays a number somewhere near 380. Now plug the lead back into the AFM and turn on your car. Done.

why do you turn the ignition key???