What you will need -Dolly (solid bit of metal to hit up against) -Rag (to wrap the Dolly in) -Rubber Mallet (If your guard is painted and you don�t want to damage it I would suggest using this, it will take longer but it is safer) -Metal Hammer (If you don�t care about cracking the paint i.e. it�s getting ready to be re-painted use this. It won�t necessarily crack it but there is more of a chance. P.S. it�s quicker than the rubber mallet) Firstly remove your tire. Wrap the Dolly in the rag and hold up against the outside of the guard. Make sure you keep it flat and hard up against it. Lightly tap the lip with the hammer all along it moving the dolly as you go. Initially you don�t want it to bend you are just trying to get it started. As you can see above the edge is slightly angled from lightly tapping it, thats what your trying to initially do. Once you have gone along the whole length you can start concentrating more to actually Lip it properly. I�d suggest starting from the middle and evenly on both sides working your way out. *Make sure you keep the dolly firmly behind the part you are hitting. And it should start to look like this. Keep going along the whole length. A good indication on where to stop is a hole on either side. It should look like this when done. When done I would suggest painting any exposed metal with primer to stop it rusting. Also if you have Butyl Mastic available (silicon stuff that goes around windows) put some in the lip as it might pool water which will also promote rust. This way you will fill the channel not allowing water to gather in it. P.S. At the very top of the front lips there is a hole, check to see it's not split from age, if it is it might warp... To get around it do the edges around it first then that part. As for the rear it will take you a little longer than the front as it is pretty thick, double layer in some parts so there is little chance it will warp. The same rule applies for the rear for where to stop you will see a small hole used for the metal clip to screw into (rear part) and the passenger door side you will notice it is pretty thick so stop where you feel it is right. Hope this makes sense. Feel free to email me (SirGeo) if you have any questions. P.S. I do not take any responsibility if you ruin anything. If you have any doubts take it to a professional. This is only a guide. Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

What do you think of those nylon wheel-equipped guard rolling do-hickeys that bolt to your hub/axle and roll the guard?

never tried them.. i do it the real way.. Can't see the point of buying a special tool if your only gonna do it once. On the other hand if you think your going to do it a few times why not.

there's a guy here in adelaide that does it with the doo hickey, I've got his card somewhere, I'll get the details up asAP

Mate got his Gemini done by one of those doo hickey things. Came out quite good

looks a treat Steve - simple, but very effective Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Well that answered my question. It seems that the doo-hickey and the hand method produce similar results.

If you don't want the paint to crack, use a heatgun to soften the paint. Don't go overboard with the heat though. Mick

Slammed Mobile Guard Rolling All cars, makes and models Mobile Service Jeff Hughes [phone removed] www.guardroller.com.au (http://www.guardroller.com.au) This was business card that I picked up from an Exhaust Technology in Adelaide cheerz morepsi

They guy from SLAMMED did mine with the doo-hickey mentioned above. Did a top job of it. zero scrapage, full carload riding on 17' rims with 235/45/r17's absolutely hammerin round corners and not a sign of a scrape!

what do you hold the gaurd liner in with now that the lip is gone?

if you're talking about those chrome guard liners just get rid of em, they were only an option for grandpas anyway Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

nah mate the plastic inside the wheel arch

Quote: Originally Posted by Neat_Cal nah mate the plastic inside the wheel arch the "splash guards".. are now in the spare/left-over parts bin.... My rubbers rubbed on them anyway.. and i assume most other people get rid of them too.. you probably put them back in if you could be bothered trying to figure it out.. i suppose a bit of selastic and a bit of a trim of the plastic and they could go back in...

Quote: Originally Posted by SirGeo the "splash guards".. are now in the spare/left-over parts bin.... My rubbers rubbed on them anyway.. and i assume most other people get rid of them too.. you probably put them back in if you could be bothered trying to figure it out.. i suppose a bit of selastic and a bit of a trim of the plastic and they could go back in... was wondering this to the other day, was thinking there must have to ba a good reason for them to stay... But I'm gonna pull them as well Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

I rolled the guards on my old calais with an old shock absorber. Just stuck it up between the tyre and the guard, drove forward, drove backwards, forward, back, etc Did an awesome job. Car had monaro 18's champagne on it. And then some cvnt flogged it! Fun times

hey steve what about the back? when i did my rear i went right upto the end cause my 245s were rubbing on the corner bits where the little clip is screwed in to the lip so i just lipped it all around there, did u do the same?

Quote: Originally Posted by ylook4 hey steve what about the back? when i did my rear i went right upto the end cause my 245s were rubbing on the corner bits where the little clip is screwed in to the lip so i just lipped it all around there, did u do the same? Yep, thats usually where my vl's always rub (near that clip).. you can bend the clip to screw into the guard once you have lipped it.. usually helps. I stop just at that point.. only slightly bending where the clip screws in.. P.S. the rear is preety hard to lip (not really hard, just takes more time).. as i've stated above it's double layer, unlike the front.

yeah i noticed that has anyone had 245s on there vl?

I had michelin slicks on simmons FR18's on the back the other day. 255's i think