Hi everyone, just wondering if any of you can help me out. I'm about to cut some small rust out of the back window of my VL Wagon (Along the bottom window seal) and was wondering how you people would go about blending in the new paint that i will spray over the areas where i have cut the rust out of.
I realise for the best paint job i would have to spray the whole boot lid but because its only a minor amount of rust i am not going to waste money on doing that.
Any ideas would be appreaciated, thanks,
Paul.
Take it to a professional panel shop, they will get the correct colour match, and probably get away with only spraying a small area, Is it a mettalic colour or solid?
Anyway won't cost too much to spray a small area get a few quotes.
What i just did on my ute was:
repair the rust, tape up area you want to under coat, undercoat it, then remove tape, sand wet with 600, tape the area larger and clean well with prepsol, blend to where a line or fold is but keep getting lighter(on the coats) at the edges so you can polish it out(feather) later
Thats the easy way out!
I agree with bextor84, a good panel beater could do a good job bleeding a small area, but respraying the whole boot is by fair the better way of getting a good finish. Have you considered preparing the panel yourself and getting the top coat sprayed by a panel better? ie. fixing the rust yourself, sanding the boot, spraying the priming and/or filler, sanding the under coat in prep for the top coat, then taking it to a panel beater to spray the top coat. It would not cost very much, $100 approximately for the panel beater to spray, get the paint matched and supply it yourself. In my mind much better than having a possible shadow mismatch on your boot.
Quote:
Originally Posted by JET-6
What i just did on my ute was:
repair the rust, tape up area you want to under coat, undercoat it, then remove tape, sand wet with 600, tape the area larger and clean well with prepsol, blend to where a line or fold is but keep getting lighter(on the coats) at the edges so you can polish it out(feather) later
Thats the easy way out!
JET-6 just a question in regards to sanding a undercoat with 600. From my knowledge and experience it should not be finer than 400 or else the top coat dosen't take to the undercoat very well. What type of primer do you use?
Quote:
Originally Posted by grug
JET-6 just a question in regards to sanding a undercoat with 600. From my knowledge and experience it should not be finer than 400 or else the top coat dosen't take to the undercoat very well. What type of primer do you use?
Personally 400 or even 600 is still very rough. Should finish it allot higher, 800 wet rub minimum!.. the smoother the rub, the better the finish.
It all depends on what you want it to turn out like. But yeah the way Jet-6 described the process is the way i would do it..
Hit the finall thing with a good polish and you won't see the differeence aslong as you matched the paint correctly.
800 Wet is correct SirGeo, You can get away with using 600 but I much prefer the 800 finer sand marks, leaving a higher build on the undercoat as well as a smoother finish.
If it was me I'd pay a shop it works out cheaper for me for such a small job by the time you go buy the paint, hardners, masking tape, paper so on, When a shop could quote you $200 maximum to piss it in.
I repaired a bonnet once, no other damage, but needed to paint it, got the paint and material price came in at $450.
Paid a shop to do it for me for $300. With a quicker turnaround.
Some times it can work out cheaper doing it this way.
Yeah 800 is the go if you are using an undercoat it gives it a better finish, you should use 600 when touching up paint straight over the original paint.
Thanks guys especially JET-6.
The car is Alpine White.
Its only a very small amount of rust under the window seal. Only a little bit comes out, not worth spraying the panel, if you see it you will all probably say i'm being too fussy.
If i wanted to take it to a panel shop i would.
I want to do the job myself... I know you can blend the paint in and not notice where the rust was cut out if you do the job right!
Yes I know it's an old old thread but I'm in the position but it's the front window and a sedan! It's a tuxedo black Calais, I'm gonna fix rust myself, fill, sand, prime etc! NOW I gotta blend it into the pillars I reckon, SO should I buy acrylic paint and blend it into the original (I hope) acrylic paint or do I paint it in 2k black and try blend that? Any ideas comments would be greatly appreciated!!!
Hard to tell how paint would react with original paint.
If doing in 2pak, paint and flick colour at the narrowest part on the pillar, once you've applied your last coat of clear(or solid 2k) use a product called blending thinners and coat the edge of the blend until it basically disappears in front of your eyes. Let sit for a day and buff off the overspray, which will look very dry and almost matte, but very gently (can probably handcut it).
When masking up car don't do a hard line let the plastic just flap around about a 6 inches+ from the blend so you don't get a build up.
Not sure if it helps but it's hard to explain typing, pretty much if I've painted a panel that's got old paint I seal the whole panel with2k primer but in your situation it's hard.
Thanks for reply msn I know exactly what your on about, if I use 2k it will be a solid 2k black but will I still need a clear on top?yep I've heard of the blending thinners! Yep I know know not to do a hard line I'll fold the paper back about 6 or so inches after the blend, the bit after the blend will be the normal paint yeah that will get overspray on it cause I'm flicking? Obviously scuff up all the old paint till my "blend point"?
