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Technical help
relocating battery to the boot?
Started by RB30-POWER · 20 June 2006 · 49 repliesPreserved from CalaisTurbo (partial recovery). Original authors and dates are shown; archived members are not current Holdcom accounts.
20-06-06, 18:57 GMT+10#2
linking a couple in parallel will bring up the amps, ie 2x 100amp trips will spread the load allowing up to 200amps to go through them, but yeah in the end probably not worth it.
when your starter begins cranking the sudden load on the breakers will most likely cause them to trip anyway. PS, starter motors draw about 250amps peak
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25-06-06, 17:52 GMT+10#4
the pictures u were promised
first is jus the battery
2nd is with the lit of
3rd is a quick snap of teh wires under the car the clamps have been removed for some mods
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25-06-06, 19:19 GMT+10#7
has anyone found an easy way to vent the boxes? mines lead acid so it has to be vented.
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26-06-06, 00:23 GMT+10#8
ive been told to drill a hole through the bottom of the box and through the boot floor, and put a hose/pipe through it...
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26-06-06, 14:27 GMT+10#9
Has anyone done this to a wagon? Just that mine isnt vented and ive gotta go thru regency (defect station) to clear my engine conversion soon, bit worried about my battery....
Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
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26-06-06, 20:03 GMT+10#10
yeah mate a guy at work has the same setup looks neat too...
Also should i worry about blocking up the holes where the wires come out in the pic above?
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28-06-06, 21:34 GMT+10#11
SO...
how do I fit all these terminals onto the starter motor.....
ive got the big terminal for the cable in the boot, a cable running to the alternator, and the fusible links, and they wont all fit together on the starter motor!!!!!
How has everyone else hooked it all up???
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28-06-06, 21:59 GMT+10#12
i just moved the battery to the boot and where the original fuseable links are is where the power wire now connects.
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28-06-06, 22:02 GMT+10#13
cut the end of the fuseable links off and put a oring joiner on they are much thinner and do the same job
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28-06-06, 22:10 GMT+10#14
also forgot to add, run the cable under the car its so much neater, just zip tie it to the fuel lines and make it look nice.
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29-06-06, 09:45 GMT+10#15
Quote:
Originally Posted by vltrb-0
cut the end of the fuseable links off and put a oring joiner on they are much thinner and do the same job
how/pics
Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
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29-06-06, 11:03 GMT+10#16
would it be sweet to just cut the termials off in from the old battery in the engine bay and just extend those cables into the boot, rather than touching alternater and starter motor. or is joining them a no no.
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29-06-06, 11:45 GMT+10#17
I cant see why that wouldnt work, just earth the original battery earth somewhere to the chassis in the engine bay and earth the battery (now in the boot) to the rear bumper bar bolt in the boot...engine bay would prolly still be messy though.
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04-07-06, 14:01 GMT+10#18
optimas range from 350-500 for the red or yellow tops depends what you want, by far teh best battery i've used. 750 cold cranking amps is sick
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05-07-06, 20:59 GMT+10#19
dont see why you would need 750cca though, would be great with a large sterio playing for a while with the engine off but on a vl just to start the car 300cca is enough, i run a lead acid battery now one year old 460cca and it starts the car easy as piss.
P.S. Even if your reading this thread and dont move the battery to the boot AT LEAST UPGRADE YOUR FACTORY WIRING BETWEEN THE BATTERY AND STARTER and it will make your car start almost 100x better it allows the starter to draw more current easier.
Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
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05-07-06, 21:56 GMT+10#20
Quote:
Originally Posted by RupertVL
dont see why you would need 750cca though
the reason is simple i picked it up for 60 bucks
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