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Better brakes - how ?

Started by kneedragger · 13 Oct 2003 · 101 replies

Preserved from CalaisTurbo. Original authors and dates are shown; archived members are not current Holdcom accounts.

kneedraggerArchived member
Like the title says ; what options would I have to enhance the brakes a tad. I believe the stock brakes on a vlt are a shame ; I am afraid someday I will run into someone , they are that bad. Especially with all that power... Is there any replacement calipers you can use ( VN, VT , etc ) that will bolt on and improve the brakes. It is not fluid fade , as I changed the brake fluid and it made **** all difference. It is not brake pad fade , as I changed them with some good pads replacements and although it seems to stick a bit better , not something to write home about... Thanks guys . Cheers
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PetrosArchived member
keep the same discs bro and buy a set of Bendix ultimates for the back - a set of EBC greenstuffs for the front, have all your rotors machined and put in some ELF XT3167 brake fluid. you will not go wrong and you will stop like theres no tomorrow- ask HSVSUX and he will swear by this setup too
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GuestArchived member
and make sure your master cyl and calipers are all fine too. if you rotors are worn a lot or badly grooved, get a set of std DBA rotors (not crossdrilled) and machine them always "on the car" the pedal will not be very soft like a VT set up, but you will have no probs locking at any speed and it will handle track type temps.
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turbolukeArchived member
another cheap mod is to use a larger pad, ie from HX holden you can see in pic that all of the discs face is now used. this made quite an improvement for me, granted the slotted rotors went on at the same time Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
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kneedraggerArchived member
Quote: Originally Posted by Petros keep the same discs bro and buy a set of Bendix ultimates for the back - a set of EBC greenstuffs for the front, have all your rotors machined and put in some ELF XT3167 brake fluid. you will not go wrong and you will stop like theres no tomorrow- ask HSVSUX and he will swear by this setup too Thanks for your advice ; now if you only tell me where do I get those pads from . Any automotive shop ; or is it some sort of performance parts I need to look into . Oh ; the rotors are nice ; I think they have been replaced ( must have ; the car was a bit abused when I bought it ... ) as they are smooth as and very little wear Cheers
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CHAYSRArchived member
It sounds like your master cylinder might be stuffed. Do what HSVSUX says and get it checked and the calipers too.
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kneedraggerArchived member
Quote: Originally Posted by CHAYSR It sounds like your master cylinder might be stuffed. Do what HSVSUX says and get it checked and the calipers too. I just looked at the fluid level and such ; it is black in colour . It could use a change . The master cylinder is fine ; it doesn't leak and the pedal is firmish ; just that the stopping power could be better . ( you need some foot grease to stop it quickly ) . I will change the pads , the fluid and see how I go . Where do I get those pads from ? Thanks guys. Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
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vlc_31tArchived member
a pedal might feel ok, but if its corroded or stuffed inside, you wont be getting full brake pressure. also, if the calipers are coroded, the same will happen. get the master cylinder and calipers reconditioned. i have a resently reconditioned 1" master cylinder here if anyone is interested. regards mark
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turbolukeArchived member
Holden HX Kingswood pad (part number DB1023). you have to modify them a little to make them fit but www.autospeed.com (http://www.autospeed.com) have done an article on this
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calaisturbo86Archived member
hey sorry take over your thread but how can you tell if you have a 1" master cylinder or booster like what marking's etc thanks ppl sorry again
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OVL087Archived member
master cyl will either have 1in or 15/16th stamped on it. booster is the same dialeter but it is about 1 inch bigger in length/depth, turboluke - who did the modifications to your pads , i have been in lukes car a few times before and after the rotor and pad change , and i can say that it improved at least 50% over what it was. i will be doing very similar very soon.
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turbolukeArchived member
yeah thanks for the hacksaw job andy, its not rocket science anyone can do it Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
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exchaserArchived member
hahahaha told I'd post a pic of my delicious brakes. but i can't be bothered they're crap actually. Hey luke, with those HX pads, they do make like a performance compound pad for them hey ? like not just crappy material pads for crappy HX's ? you get me ? Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
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turbolukeArchived member
i used bendix advance, i didnt want metal or hard pads as they tend to chew rotors and squeak/grind. shop around, im sure you could find something you want. i figured id try the softer pads first and see how they go, so far im happy
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exchaserArchived member
well just to keep myself happy i thought id post these pics, u can see how much more of the front rotor could be used if i were to fit HX pr wateva pads to the vlt calliper like luke has. and the rear aswell Ollie Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
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B15HOPArchived member
I heared cross drilled can sometimes snap under too much load, is this true?
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exchaserArchived member
apparently they dont just SNAP... but when used incorrectly (ie on a racetrack, extremely high temperatures etc) which i dont they they are properly designed for they tend to crack out from the drilled holes.. which doesnt look very good. i've seen an vn ss group a with cross drilled rotors which were in serious need of replacement due to some really nasty cracks in the rotors.. if it were my car i wouldnt even have been driving it. i think cross drilled rotors from companies such as dba etc are more for looks hey.. they would be practical for street use for sure, but its when u start giving them hell from serious high speeds and track work that u will notice wat happens to them
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GuestArchived member
bigger pads doesnt mean better brakes, its all about clamping pressure and taking the heat, bigger pads will last a bit longer and will run a wee bit cooler and that in its self may provide better braking with std type pads, but, if you get pads that have a lot of bite and can take the temperature (around 500 degrees) there will be next to no difference in performance between pad sizes. big ass race calipers have quite small pads considering
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ZanjaraArchived member
take a look at this site and give them a call... http://www.cebcobrakes.com.au they do bloody good brake system's they also make there own stuff like pad's etc and also use top stuff as well.. a friend of our family he had a VS SS and got powerchip upgrade etc etc and wanted a brake upgrade went to HSV they qouted him 4k upgrade my dad just said give this guy a call 2k later new brake upgrade and was very good for that price also.. i know when i get my brakes done next its from this place hehe Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
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kneedraggerArchived member
Can someone please tell me where in Melbourne I can get the EBC green pads and the bendix ultimates or whatever for the back ? I tried 2 shops and they have never heard of EBC ... Cheers
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