Hi guys just curious to know if all the vlt 1 inch master cyclinders have four attachment bolts at the back where it bolts to the firewall.

The booster has 4 bolts in the firewall, but the master cylinder bolts to the booster with 2 bolts.

Are you sure it has 4 bolts? Mine has 2.

On my VN it has 4 bolts

Sorry ,My mistake , VL Turbo Brake boosters have 2 bolts into the firewall . I just remembered mine had been modified to 4 bolts by the guy that owned my car before me . Sorry guys !!!!!!!

The master cylinder has two bolts that connect it to the brake booster (black vacum diaphram actuator). If your changing them over, be sure that you DONT touch your brake peddal when the master cylidner is out, otherwise your proportions will get or rooted and out of calibration. While your at it man, get that diaphram chromed..... it looks trick!

Ahhh ****e I leaned on my brake pedal while I was under the dash trying to get the booster out. Do I have to take it to a brake shop to get it fixed now?

try it and see... how hard did you lean on it? it can pop something out of the booster...

WTF?? The boosters have a bracket that bolts into the firewall and the booster bolts onto that, the booster itself has four bolts which bolt onto the bracket. Upsetting the brake balance by moving the pedal etc while the booster out is a load of rubbish, if you do move it it will just push the pushrod out a bit, just push it back down. Just dont pump the master cyl if there are lines undone because you will bleed air into the mastercyl.

when the booster is out it's fine, but if the master is out and the booster still in then you can upset something inside it, can't remember what though...

carcrazy, as you said, pushing the brake pedal will move the pushrod around, but if your a total novice you might neglect that you have infact pushed it, maybe even to the floor while doing some other stuff inside your cabin. If you wonder why you dont have any brakes after doing everything right in the install, this could be your problem. You might want to bench bleed the master cylinder as well, to get air out of the piston area and so forth, which will make bleeding the brakes really damn hard. To do this, put the master cylinder in a vice, and use some scrap brakelines, maybe from a wreck. fill a small glass jar with brake fluid, bend all the brake lines into the same jar and make them submerged with fluid. Get your friend to hold the jar, top up the Master cylinder half way, and then pump the piston. Air should come out of the air lock on pumping (keep the master cylinder full) and when its sucking, fluid should be comming up. If you got a new Master cylinder you will need to do this, but if your inspecting your old one or changing a booster, you shouldnt really have to, but ide get the brakes bleed at a brake shop, as they use a machine to do it,which is much faster and better. If your going to bleed brakes, start at the passenger rear, then drivers rear, passenger front, drivers front. You might want to do the same again just to be sure. Extra precautions for less headaches in the long run never hurt anyone Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

That happened to me when I painted up my booster unit and fitted a 1 inch m/c,there is a cylindrical rubber block inside the booster called a rubber reaction disc,when this came out it made the pedal feel very deep and the braking was very sensitive when the brake pedal was applied. I fitted the disc from the M/c which came out of the car to the one which went in which fixed the braking problem (it firmed up the brake pedal),I only knew about this after searching the net as the Gregory's manual I have doesn't show it.