hey, i have this problem with my na berlina. when the car is cold, it *** rips, but when the car actually properly heats up, ie. at least 1/3 of temp guage, the car ****s itself, and starts to run like a bucket of ****. when u give it gas more than half, it splutters n ****, dsnt go, and u have to take ure foot off to only about 10% gas, and gently get it going. i had mechanic come over, and he told me it was the fuel pump. $150 later and a new BOSCH pump, same old ****. IF NE1 HAD HAD THIS PROBLME B4 - PLZ TELL ME WOTS WRONG. i knows its something electrical, but because my dad is old - living in the carby age, and i know **** all bout EFI coz im only know gemis, i have no idea. i rekon it's sum sensor or sumthin. ne ideas- plz post em. thanx heaps.

oh, and forgot to add, that if u leave it for like 20 mins, it's fine until it warms up properly again. chris.

i am experiencing the exact same problem, i have been told it may be the CAS or distributor, but i dont know for sure if anyone can help, please do

Quote: Originally Posted by Jazza i am experiencing the exact same problem, i have been told it may be the CAS or distributor, but i dont know for sure if anyone can help, please do dude, my msn is [email removed], add me, and if ne1 of us figure dis **** out, i let u know k. itll be fixed within the week. **** like dis always get fixed eventually. chris.

Please post threads like this in the technical section... thanks.

what you are describing sounds just like the effect pulling the plug off the afm has. you can crawl up to speed but any decent acceleration and it goes to ****. try pulling the plug off and going for a drive to see if it makes any difference. if not then thats your prob. clean the contacts up a bit and use some wd40 if its that. worth a try...

hrrrrmmm sounds very much like a prob i had.......... did u replace the internal or external pump, coz mine tuned out to be the internal (low pressure) fuel pump that was ****ing me around

changed the external one - still makes a funny noise when the pump starts when u turn the ignition. ne1 else have ne ideas?

by the way wot is a AFM? - also wots dis CAS?

afm = air flow meter cas = crank angle sensor

Quote: Originally Posted by dr00 what you are describing sounds just like the effect pulling the plug off the afm has. you can crawl up to speed but any decent acceleration and it goes to ****. try pulling the plug off and going for a drive to see if it makes any difference. if not then thats your prob. clean the contacts up a bit and use some wd40 if its that. worth a try... You can't drive a VL with the AFM disconected, it will idle, but as soon as you try and drive it will splutter like a full whores mouth.

you can drive a vl with the afm unplugged. i have done it. just doesn't go too well when you rev it above a certain rpm (bout 2 grand).

ive driven mine up the street and back. but thats what i am saying, the description of his problem sounds similar to when your afm is unplugged so i thought he should pull it out to see if it makes a difference. if not he knows where the problem is... Quote: when u give it gas more than half, it splutters n ****, dsnt go, and u have to take ure foot off to only about 10% gas, and gently get it going.

I had the exact same problem occur on my turbo. Mechanic who always carried out the work on the car initialy thought Fuel Pump, CAS or AFM. ( the common things with VL's) Fuel pump was replaced and CAS. Car didn't improve much. A new AFM was around the $250 mark, and the mechanic said once u take the AFM out of the box it is pretty much all yours, as it is very hard to get them (bosch make them i think) to take it back. Solution was to take the AFM off my mates car and test on my car to see if that was the cause b4 forking out the cash on a new one, but in the end i got impatient. Got the new AFM and car ran a tad better but not as well as it could. Month later went away for a week on work so left the car down @ the mechanics (whom i trust greatly) for him to have plenty of time to find the problem. Came back and the car was 100% better. Instant power. The problem was the TPS Switch or TPS sensor. TPS = Throttle Position Sensor. I'll look at my records to verify but from memory a new one in the car set me back about $120. Never looked back though, felt like a new car!! Fiddle around with the wires on/leading to the TPS as i remember him saying that when he moved the wires around, the car would behave differently. I had to replace though to rectify my problem.

yea u can always hear the external pump dude, thats it pumping at high pressure..... plus ur internal one could b straining ur external one

from my experiences wiith NA Vl's if you take off the afm connector your motor dies!!, and if it's your Crank angle sensor(CAS) when they are stuffed your motor just dies, then you have to wait about 15 minutes for it to cool down before you can start the motor again!

Check the ECU codes first. Its a better option than just guessing whats wrong. :roll: Mick

no ones mentioned the temp sensor yet .. if thats stuck thinking the engine is cold, itd be running badly when it warms up, wouldnt it? I know when its cold and it thinks its hot it runs like a bitch .. mine was like that .. had an open circuit on the temp sensor .. ECU codes *SHOULD* pick that up .. i know they detect opencircuit, and probably short circuit ..

i disconnected the plug to the afm, and it gets worse, the car dsnt want to rise at all bout 1000 revs. the CAS has also been changed. along with new leads, and a whole lotta other ****. a new computer was put in, and still same problem. only code it comes up with is the A/C is faulty - but thats coz the fuse was blown. the problem has somewhat changed a bit. the car idles like 650. if u punch it in neutral, it like misses the initial fire, then starts to cath its revs. then, on the way up, 2, 3 thousand, it miss fires - like a car running on 3 cylinders but not as bad. think ill do the low pressure pump soon. chris.

SUCESS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! my car goes even better after changing the low pressire fuel pump, new sparks, new leads, and the fuel pressure sensor (bitch of a job). a whole lotta other **** was changed b4 this, but it was prolly the Fuel pressure sensor. the car is fixed. it's never gone as good as it does. now, car idles, u punch the accelerator as quik as u can, once it hits the floor u back off, it gets like 4000 *** so quik. m8, my car *** rips m8 - full sik. thank for all sugesstions. Chris. Some original photos have not been recovered yet.