ok.. just wondering what rough price a new centre bearing and uni's for a vl tailshaft would cost ?? any ideas on how much a mechanic would charge to replace both... ?? is it a fairly straight foward job ? i imagine the centre bearing might be but the unis look like they mite need a bot of ***in around ? all ideas etc welcome... Cheers Ollie

Actually, other way round champ! The uni's are easy as, but the centre bearing, well, everything has to go the way it came off, otherwise you get vibrations....and costs, well, I really have no idea... To get the uni's out, hmm...how can I explan this...if you look at them, there is like, sorta like a round hole in the tail shaft where the uni sits in. You get a socket that fits this, and bash the uni out one way, then turn the tail shaft around, and do the same I know that doesnt really make sence, but if you have a good look at it, you might figure out what I'm on about.

ollie ur looking at 300 minimum for new unis and a cb , plus mechs labour of 2 hours , much easier to go to hardy spicer and get a reco unit for about 400 , put it in urself. very simple.

I paid 270 for the cb at pedders about 2 years ago.Fitted.

Quote: To get the uni's out, hmm...how can I explan this...if you look at them, there is like, sorta like a round hole in the tail shaft where the uni sits in. You get a socket that fits this, and bash the uni out one way, then turn the tail shaft around, and do the same you gotta take the clip off the insides of the uni first. Uni's are fairly easy to do, but there are tricks too it, like bashing the crap outta it with a rubber mallet when your finished to losen up the uni. CB could be a pain, never done one. I've got a 1pc tailshaft. Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

The centre bearing is cheap as, its the cv joint that is expensive, i redid my whole tail shaft not that long ago!

what's the difference? center bearing and constant velocity, right? I thought they were one and same...

Nup there two different parts

hrmm.. 300 bucks..well root that in the ass.. ok here is another question.. when coming out of drivway.. in reverse.. then put it into drive, there is a tink tink kinda noise as each gear is selected.. its definately tailshaft related.. but im not sure if its the unis or centre bearing ? wat would u guys suggest by my description of the problem?? any input welcome.. gotta sort this **** out... cheers Ollie

Are there any pit falls to replacing the tailshaft with a one piece item? and make the replacement a bigger (stronger) one.

the thump thump that dissapears with speed is your centre bearing ollie

Quote: Are there any pit falls to replacing the tailshaft with a one piece item? and make the replacement a bigger (stronger) one. I've got a custom 1 piece. Came with my 5spd conversion kit. It's WAY lighter than the two piece but if i load the car up with 5 people and a boot full of crap then over some bumbs the tailshaft hits when the center bearing should be... Since i put VLT spacers on the crossmember though i haven't had a prob.

1pce shafts can be very vibraty , also as said above if cars lowered a lot itll hit floorpan. ollie - yes its the c/b , though if the unis are too tight they will tick tick tick at speed also there is a little metal pin which holds/locks into place for the "park" gear , it can occasionally pop out if the gear selector rod/cable isnt adjusted right , it causes a tick noise whilst driving too.

tempest - where did u get the proper spacers from?

If the CV is gone, it will clunk at all speeds, is worse if your car is lowered

simple fix - put an extra washer under the crossmember to lower it a wee bit further , makes it a little more level and lessen the chance of it deteriorating and clunking

OVL087 wrote, Quote: tempest - where did u get the proper spacers from? came with the kit i bought. as did starter. It would be easy to make the spacers up though. Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

yeah it is easy , i just wanna know the size of the original spacer. i just have 2 washers under mine , not the best though. also another good trick i know get urself some 3mm thin flat nolathane rubber , cut it to like 1 inch square , drill a hole in it , and the put it between the gbox mount and the car , this gives it a wee bit of dampening and can lessen road noise and vibration

Tailshafts: As the length increases/ diameter decreases/ thickness decreases, the maximum rotational speed decreases. With all tailshafts, you get to a certain speed and the thing will hit its rotational resonance and go spastic and look like a crazy dude's arm with no shoulder. So a 1 piece is worse (generally) for high speeds but deletes the centre bearing, therefore being able to cope with more torque and abuse (also because it will bigger generally) As a rule of thumb, if you want to go over 220Kph reqularly, you should get a two piece no matter what car (unless its mid engined with a 6 inch tailshaft 8) )

Quote: also there is a little metal pin which holds/locks into place for the "park" gear , it can occasionally pop out if the gear selector rod/cable isnt adjusted right , it causes a tick noise whilst driving too. HRmm.. interesting you say that andy... took car to mechanic today at sumner park and ther is no play in unis and only a tiny bit in the centre bearing.. he said that neither the cb or uni's were the problem.. and that we should look at maybe having the auto serviced, which he quoted $250 bucks for a proper flush out of all the fluid in the box ? thanks for ur input tho guys.. should be able to sort this annoying little ****, whoops i mean 'clunk' out Ollie Some original photos have not been recovered yet.