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Stalling VP (timing out?)

Started by scary · 27 May 2003 · 2 replies

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scaryArchived member
about a week ago, i gave my VP berlina V6 a bit of stick past this other car... all was good but then about 10kms up the road when i hung a left, the car stalled.... it started fine but then stalled.... then i tried starting it with my foot on the accelerator and drove home with the revs up coz as soon as i took my foot off, it would stall. then next day, it would do it occasionally and then after that, it sorta of fixed itself, although, its idle was a little low (~650rpm) tonight, i gave it some and once again, when i turned right up the road (about 1km) she stalled. i had to do the same thing to get it going and when i took my foot off the accelerator to let the revs falls, it stalled, so i had to drive around with light acceleration and the foot on the brake when slowing down. i dont know if it is the belt slipping but thats my prediction. i dont know how to tune the VP so any help on tuning or if anyone knows the problem, it would be greatly appreciated. sorry to type so much but to get the problem fixed, all the steps that ive done need to be said (ofcourse) thanx
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VLT_Wagon88Archived member
If the problem is as intermittent as you say and always on righthand bends it could be the fuel pump ie) not getting fuel when all the fuels up the other end of the tank. At anything under 1/4 tank my old VN 5.0L used to do the same thing. Otherwise try this. 1). Remove the interior kick panel on the passenger side 2) On the wiring that leads to your ECU (Computer) you will find what is called a ADNL connector(Assembly Line Data Link, or Diagnostic Link) It looks something like this, only smaller. 3) Using a paperclip or other suitable device short the ECU into diagnostic mode. This is done by bridging (touching the paperclip on both pins A and B) and keep it bridged. 4) Your Check Engine Lamp on your instrument cluster will now begin to flash out a series of codes. 5)Count the number of flashes to get a digit. Each fault code is made up of two digits separated by a 1.2 second pause. There is a 3.2 second pause between digit groups (ie. fault codes) For example, a fault code of 12 (which is actually a no fault, fault code!) is made up of one flash, a pause of 1.2 seconds, then two flashes, followed by a pause of 3.2 seconds. this sequence repeats. ok you now have it sused out. Heres the fault codes and their meanings. Code Explanation 12 No spark pulses at CPU or else good system, no codes 13 Oxygen sensor output remained at .35-.55 volts for more than one minute after warmup. Possible open circuit. 14 Coolant sensor indicated a temperature above 130C for 3 seconds after engine ran for 20 seconds. Probably a short 15 Coolant sensor indicated a temperature below -30C for 3 seconds when MAT > - 13 or engine running over 1 minute. Probably open circuit 21 Throttle pos sensor above 2.5 volts for 2 seconds when engine speed below 1600 rpm 22 Throttle pos sensor below .2 volt for 2 seconds while engine running 23 MAT sensor shows < -30 degrees C for 3 seconds after engine running 1 minute or coolant > 30C. Probably an open circuit. 24 No speed sensor pulses when engine between 2000-4000 rpm, throttle closed, high vacuum, not in neutral and all for 5 seconds 25 MAT sensor showed above 145 degrees C for 2 seconds after engine ran for over 1 minute. Possible short circuit. 31 Unknown Error Code 32 Unknown Error Code 33 MAP sensor voltage too high (> 4.00 v). Possible vacuum leak to sensor or faulty sensor. 34 MAP sensor voltage too low (< 0.25 v) with ignition on or engine running >1200 rpm and throttle open >20% 35 Closed throttle idle speed is more than 75 rpm above or below correct value for more than 45 seconds 41 No Crankshaft reference pulses. Ignition voltage < 11 volts etc. 42 Open or short on EST or BYPASS line to ignition module. 43 Engine Knock Sensor open or shorted. 44 O2 sensor showed < 0.250 volt for over 20 seconds while operating closed loop 45 O2 sensor showed > 0.550 volt for over 50 seconds while in closed loop with engine running over 1 minute and throttle open more than 2% 51 Check insertion of MEMCAL in socket and bent pins. 52 Check that CALPAK is in place, fully inserted, and no bent pins 53 Car's alternator has produced >17.1 volts for over 2 seconds. Check charging system 54 Unknown error code 55 ECU A to D error. Check ECU grounds, or excessive input voltage Have fun and I hope you learnt something new Thats if you havent already fixed the problem :roll: . Jake Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
Photo 1 shared by VLT_Wagon88
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SYKD UPArchived member
Its the IAC valve wiring either fallen off or corroded or broken. These IAC valves are also known to snap at the mounts. Pull the trottle body off, take it apart & clean it with carbi cleaner. Remove the IAC valve & clean this port out as well. It will be full of carbon no doubt!! Replace the o-ring around the IAC valve & throttle body to manifold gasket. Should take you about 30 mins to complete the exercise Dave
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