I just bought a VL Commodore, my first car. It does have a few problems, hopefully of which are all related and caused by some inexpensive part that happens to be faulty completely due to its age (yeah right!) I'll list them off and hopefully someone can point me in the right direction: - Won't hold a Steady Idle: It surges either side of 650rpm. I have tried adjusting it and redoing the timing with no success. Vacuum leak in the intake manifold maybe? (hopefully not) It also (used to) surge while driving, but since I cleaned the contacts on the air temperature sensor that problem has disappeared. - Cuts out when Cold: If I don't give it a few revs after a cold start it will cut out after about 10/20 secs. Low idle maybe? Related to the problem above? - Exhaust Fumes / Soot: It used to blow black smoke but again doesn't since the sensor was cleaned. Now it just drops soot onto the ground behind the car. If you hold your hand in front of the exhaust you get a black (non petrol smelling) powder (slightly greasy, but not much) coating on it. After 2 mins of running in the garage, there is a black skid mark on the bricks behind the car. - Burning Oil: I've done about 1000km's since I last checked the oil, but it is now sitting a 1/4 down from High. It was sitting on High before. - Using HEAPS of Fuel: I don't know what's normal for a non Turbo VL, but it uses about 50L per 300km. - Misfiring: This is a new problem, only started the other day, and only does it under strain ie going up a hill. It will just occasionally jolt (definately from the engine, not a uni joint or anything). So... I'm in Perth, South of the River - Anyone know a good VL mechanic?!? Or perhaps you could give me a diagnosis over the forum, that would be really helpfull. Cheers Guys (and Gals), -- Cameron

Ok well one thing i thought of for the first three is a faulty coolant temp sensor. They can easily be replaced. Something else that will cause black smoke is the oxygen sensor, once again, easy to replace.

check the fault codes on the ecu - see if anything is "playing up"

Actually - I have checked the codes on the ecu.. no problems there. One thing to add (which I overlooked) is that the little black connector up from the actual oxygen sensor has melted on the outside. It looks like someone has taken it off and its accidently touched the exhaust manifold. The damage looked external, but maybe the heat has altered the resistance of the wire inside, playing around with the readings. I might run round to repco tommorow and get a replacement if that sounds like one of the problems. -- Cameron

have you checked the plugs and leads? cause of my little probs?? could be the reason its running rough on idle as well (when it's cold)??

As in the wiring for the sensors? No - but I will today Would repco sell me a new wiring harness for the eccs? Is it easy to replace?

Ok, price check: 1 x Coolant Temp Sensor = $75 1 x Oxygen Sensor = $178 Easy to replace but not easy on the budget. The guy doesn't know whether the wiring comes with it. I'm guesing it doesn't. I might run round to Pick A Part and Pocket some wiring off another car, maybe the sensors aswell.

ok - another update I pulled off the lead for the Throttle Valve Switch and the idle surging stopped. It also jumped up to a steady 900 rpm (but it still needs to be 700). The switch works ok ie when you rev, it breaks the circuit. But for some reason when the computer thinks the engine is idling, it start coughing a spewing out black soot. Does this make any sense to anyone? What is wrong with my car?!?!? Any help would be appreciated.... -- Cameorn

mine idles in drive at about 900-1000... what could this mean? also how do i switch the comp to diagnostic mode?

Unscrew the kick panel on the passenger side and there is a little screw hole (flathead) on the front of the eccs. With the ignition off, turn it fully counter-clockwise. Then turn the ignition on and wind the screw round fully clockwise. The LED's should flash and give off codes 14, 23, 24 and 31. [One red flash then two green flashes means code 12] Then you have to cancel out the codes that have shown: - Drive faster than 10km/hr to cancel 14 - Shift from neutral to high then back to neutral to cancel 24 - Push the accelerator pedal down then release it (not all the way) to cancel 24 - Turn the aircon ON then OFF then ON to cancel 31 Any remaining codes after doing all this (which can be read by simply rotating the eccs screw fully CCW then fully CW) are the troublesome ones. Codes are as follows: 11 Crank Angle Sensor Circuit (common problem) 12 Air Flow Meter Circuit 13 Coolant Temp Sensor Circuit 14 Speed Sensor Circuit 21 Ignition Signal Circuit 23 Throttle Switch Circuit 24 Neutral Switch Circuit 31 A/C Switch (OR System OK on non A/C Cars) 32 Starter Circuit 44 System OK on A/C Cars This willl point you in the right direction Hope it helps -- Cameron (BTW - any figured out why mine runs rough on idle only - Are there any system which are localised to the when the car is idling)

before replacing any suspect parts id be having a good look at the coolent temp sensor as this could be the cause of ur car running rich and spitting soot.. (it always gets said) :roll: get a can of WD-40 and take off every electrical connection u can find and clean the terminals. replace ur spark plugs and leads. replace your distributor cap if its dogey. see if that gets you anywhere.

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Quote: pulled off the lead for the Throttle Valve Switch and the idle surging stopped. It also jumped up to a steady 900 rpm (but it still needs to be 700). The switch works ok ie when you rev, it breaks the circuit. But for some reason when the computer thinks the engine is idling, it start coughing a spewing out black soot. Does this make any sense to anyone? What is wrong with my car?!?!? Any help would be appreciated.... i had this problem, also when i booted it LOTS of black smoke and rough runing, it turned out to be the "o" rings aroung my injectors where they go into the inlet manifold. The engine was sucking in air around the injectors and causing all sorts of bother. It also sounds like your idle solinoid setup on the back of you plenum could do with a clean 8)

I've said it a few times before, and I'm sorry if it's getting repetitive but..... check the fuel lines just behind the right rear wheel. If they haven't been replaced, they will be falling apart and leaking fuel.

the miss is fouled spark plugs.

When car idleing disconnect the coolant temp sensor see if idel become smoother Check plugs and leads ,replace dizzy cap ,Clean throttle body and Vaccum Solinoid as they build up with carbon and gunk... Clean as mentioned by Ex-Chaser get WD40 or RP7 and clean evey connector on the VL dude Hopefully you have found issue or this helps man :mrgreen: :mrgreen: Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Well I have had my N/A VL for 2 years now and I have never had any of these problems... So I cant help much I guess. 1 thing to check though would be the codes as stated above or only other thing I can think of is going to a mechanic and ask em for a service and tell em whats going on. At least they will be quilified to tell you whats wrong.

You said burning oil,the way you describe it is if their is excessive wear in the motor,the VL I have now blew smoke a year ago when I first bought it,but I fitted all of the driveline from another VL I crashed and it has been fine ever since,but I pulled the old motor down and the clearances & compression was fine,the oil control rings were gunked up causing the motor to blow smoke,it also leaked a fair bit of oil,went through a litre every 400 kms. By the way your engine is running it sounds like it is nearly dead (badly worn rings),before changing any EFI components I'd make sure the engine is up to scratch as the ECU,sensors,etc will not work properly on a near dead motor.

are buddy i reckon leave the oxygen sensor disconnected, i asked the previous owner today and he said he cut the wiring to mine and although the car does run alot richer and hasn't got the fuel economy it used to, it still runs 100x better and runs alot faster, i havent got any black soot coming out of my exhaust, in fact im glad mines disconnected. I get my LICENSE back in 12 DAYS yeehaw! My mods - - Uni-filter - 2.5 inch exhaust straight through - high-flow muffler and Cat - bigger fuel pump - bigger injectors - 5 speed manual - extractors - disconnected oxygen sensor HEHE trust me, with all these mods, my car is definnetly the fastest VL in town and almost the fastest 6 in town!

Re: black smoke. I had the same problem and found that it was due to three of my injectors not working, thus the others were running way rich. The type of extractors Im running only allows for O2 sensor placement on a tuble that runs of first three cyls. Hope this helps.