Just wondering about the oil pressure sender. The only thing that I could was a cylinder shaped object with a wire attached to it at the top. Was this the oil pressure sender? (It was between starter motor and oil filter and about a quarter of the size of the oil filter).
Cheers
not that i can tell.... but im sure someone will popup and say your engine will blow up unless you use the turbo one. The differance is very minimal and for all the *****ing around changing them over its not worth it, in my opinion anyway. Some ppl say the n/a cam will give you a better mid range.
Ive stuck with the n/a cam purely because i couldnt been bothered changing them plus i sold my turbo one to spirific
Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
Does anybody know where you can buy the correct T-piece OR get one made? I tried a few motor parts shops (ie independant motor mart ect) but they stumped. Can anybody help me out?
Cheers
There use to be a site about converting the series 1 engine, i dont know if its still about, but it explained it all pretty good. Search the web it still might in cyberspace somewhere.
For the fittings i think your talking about Muzza try Pirtek or Enzed.
nah does not latter now. my car is 1986 and has a series 2 motor in it i was surprised because i looked at a series 2 diagram and then lloked at my motor and found all the oil feed pipe holes and oil drain pipe holes.
I am really impressed with this string, it is a good general informer of the VLT conversion, i have a spare motor, and a few dollars, i might have to give it a try, and when i do, i'll take pics all the way and document everything that i do... Ehh why not... lol...
Just remember also getting a decent t3 turbo these days without a shagged exaust housing is next to impossible. Just think the t3 is now approx 15years old and most havent been rebuilt. Be preppared to spend money on the turbo, cause i believe most will need a rebuid or freshen up.
My 2c worth
Does anyone have any idea of the costs involved with this exercise? I have a series 1 engine, but i could goto wreakers get a series 2 engine for about $400 and rebuild. But if i've doing that, i'd wanna, get manual box conversion and diff too. oh **** i'm getting some wicked ideas now
How hard is it to wire a detonation sensor into the loom?
Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
coming in a bit late here, but about the brakes, why exactly do they have to be bigger, unless your going twice as fast now with the turbo on your car.
say if you were doing 60, aren't you really pulling up the same car + a tiny bit of extra weight?
Hey, i wouldnt mind doing this conversion but i gotta series1 engine.
anyone no how much time and money it would cost to do all that stuff i need to do to get it to series2 spec?
Also, u guys that have done it yourself - have you had experience as a mechanic or anything or do u just need to be mechanically minded?
any special tools etc you would need to do it?
Quote:
Originally Posted by bextor84
coming in a bit late here, but about the brakes, why exactly do they have to be bigger, unless your going twice as fast now with the turbo on your car.
say if you were doing 60, aren't you really pulling up the same car + a tiny bit of extra weight?
that's true, it more about pulling the car up when you are accelerating though, because the car is going to have more forward montion if you have more horsepower. But if you are just driving around normally, then yeah, the brakes don't really matter.
you do go twice as fast , maybe not on an average speed but you accelerate twice as fast if not plenty more , u need brakes to pull u up , plus u need brakes that are gonna stay cooler for that little bit longer plus u need big brakes to be legal and roadworthy.
twice as much speed, not acceleration,equals twice as much momentum. twice as much acceleration equals twice as much force. if a turbo has twice as much acceleration it would get to 100 km/h twice as fast as a n/a ie about 5 or 6 seconds. many turbos do that?
