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VL Commodore

Engine Chugging

Started by BeefsVL · 14 Nov 2002 · 18 replies

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BeefsVLArchived member
please help. last night i parked my car on the back lawn to wash it. this morning when i went out and started it, it had trouble starting and is now chugging really badly. it is making the whole car shake. i was thinking it was possibly blocked fuel injectors. please help.
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my88vlArchived member
If as you say, you have just washed it, then maybe you have gotten some water under the bonnet on some of the electrical connections. The best thing you should try first is to lift the bonnet and check under there for any water in the engine bay. Dry all your electrical connections off and see how it runs. Something like WD40 on the terminals will clear out some of the moisture.
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PetrosArchived member
And open up your dizzy and watch how much water comes out!
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quick6Archived member
i have recently had the same problem ...........i thought it was the torque converter or the old jatco box playing up but funnily enough i changed the leads and problem solved
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BeefsVLArchived member
all the connections are dry so i dont think its that. i haven't had my car for long, so i dont know much about them, but what is the Dizzy.
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my88vlArchived member
Ya can try the plugs but it really does sound like the old problem of the RB30's phobia of water. Give it a day in the sun and see if it gets any better, if not go the WD40 on terminals.
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Morgz85Archived member
Quote: Originally Posted by BeefsVL all the connections are dry so i dont think its that. i haven't had my car for long, so i dont know much about them, but what is the Dizzy. Dizzy is short for Distributor.....
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BeefsVLArchived member
I have now left my car for 48 hours since washing it. it has been quite hot weather the last few days, and i have driven it about 50k's since then, but the engine is still running like ****. could any water still be trapped somewhere, if so, where?
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my88vlArchived member
It may be possible for water to be in there... mainly in the Air Flow Meter sensors, Coolant Temperature Sensor & Crank Angle Sensor. Something else to try would be to pull the Distributor cap off and check it for moisture & any cracks.
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BeefsVLArchived member
i had the RAA look at my car and he isolated the problem to the 4th cylinder not firing. the distributor and leads are all ok, so i am guessing the spark plug is faulty or the fuel injector is blocked. i did a self diagnosis and it returned code 21 (Ignition signal circuit). what does this mean? i think it is the injector because i removed the spark plug and it looked ok and didn't have any petrol on it. does anyone have any other ideas because i don't want to pay ultra tune $65 just to tell me my spark plug is faulty or something stupid like that.
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MidzArchived member
Quote: Originally Posted by BeefsVL i had the RAA look at my car and he isolated the problem to the 4th cylinder not firing. the distributor and leads are all ok, so i am guessing the spark plug is faulty or the fuel injector is blocked. i did a self diagnosis and it returned code 21 (Ignition signal circuit). what does this mean? i think it is the injector because i removed the spark plug and it looked ok and didn't have any petrol on it. does anyone have any other ideas because i don't want to pay ultra tune $65 just to tell me my spark plug is faulty or something stupid like that. Well maybe splash out and buy urself a 3.50 sparkplug and test it ? betta still.. just unscrew the plug and screw it back in again
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BeefsVLArchived member
i have narrowed the problem down to a fuel problem. the 4th cylinder is not firing at all. the spark plug is still sparking but no fuel is getting into the cylinder. is it a blocked/broken fuel injector, or could it be an electrical connection. if so where.
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TongueyArchived member
hey mate i have the same problem at the moment, try that spitfire stuff, u can get it anywhere, it goes in your petrol tank and helps clean everythign out i havent treid it yet but i will soon, i'll let u know how it goes cheers tonguey
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BeefsVLArchived member
I tried the spitfire stuff but have had no luck. i think i am going to have to pay someone to fix it because i have tried everything.
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BeefsVLArchived member
FIXED
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BeefsVLArchived member
I got my car checked and it turned out to be the fuel injector was ****ed. I got them to put a reconditioned injector in because a new one was $250 and the recond. one was $75. Is the recond. injector going to be as good as a new one? Has anyone put a recond injector in their car? Anyways, it is working fine for now so i am happy Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
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SadistikArchived member
reco injector? woohoo a flushed injector with a new basket..... tops!
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nathoArchived member
my n/a has a set of cleaned injectors (or 'reco' if you like) and its just like new i guess. definately started and idled better once they went on.
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RB30DEVLArchived member
A reco injector isn't as good as new,as they are just second hand injectors which have been cleaned,new filter basket,pintle cap,etc fitted. Wreckers go through heaps of them,in my expererience once they hit around 300,000 kms their pintles flog out and leak fuel,have had a second hand set for just over 100,000 kms and they started leaking (again !!),the set I bought leaked also,it idles bad when cold then clears up,it idles a bit rough also,I use Shell Optimax which keeps them clean. The VL's are an old high mileage car which increases the chance for worn injectors,it is best to go for a brand new set ($1400 trade,$1800 retail) or go for a low km twin cam conversion,which I am going to do, which also costs about the same. Or you can get the chip rewritten to drive aftermarket Bosch VLT injectors ($660 per set)
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