Yep- I've had a vlt sl 5spd for about 9 months now and have had an intermittant fault for the whole time. If no-one here can help I'm flogging the bloody thing :evil:
80% of the time she runs beaut- bleed valve at 10psi and cold air- run a 14.2 at 162 and 222rwhp.
The other 20% is driving me to drink.
For no particular reason (I can work out) she runs like ****. When I pull to idle the revs will drop and she will almost stall. Lots of thick black smoke. If I rev while in this condition it pauses and coughs and grumbles before ripping into it's usual good performance.
It happened a while back and it ran so rich I couldn't start it and had to replace the spark plugs as they were black
As I say- under load she still rips.
I have foofed around a bit and have my own theories- chief amoung them is that the O2 sensor is clogged with carbon. I also think my AFM might be on the fritz.
I know I know- "take it to a mechanic"- I just dont have the $ to get them to run their diagnostics for 4 hours from the manual to track it down. Plus it looks like the previous owner has had a fair go at trying to find it- rubber covers on wires all over the engine have been cut for a multimeter and it seems like they couldn't find the problem.
WHAT I AM LOOKING FOR?
I know it is hard for anyone to give any concrete help but I am sure someone out there has come across something similar. I just need ideas of where to look.
Is the O2 sensor such a bad idea?
How do I check if the AFM is bung?
Is this something apart from fuel and air? ie. could my computer be ****ed (it has had a bit of water on it) (will I never know until I get a new computer or have a diagnostic run on my existing one)
ANY IDEAS AT ALL AT THIS STAGE WOULD BE WELCOME
Please drop a line if you need questions answered
thanks guys
find someone who has a vl (doesnt hafta be turbo) and try swapping his afm and o2 sensor onto your car (one at a time obviously). that will tell you if thats the problem.
i got spare n/a afm. u can try if u want, and if it werks shes all yours for a block or sumthin. im pretty sure n/a and turb r same
pm and arrange sumthin, im north of river
Also sounds like the common AFM problem that VL's get. Suggest that you check the connections for corrosion and make sure that the plug clicks firmly back in place.
One of my VLTs was recently using litres per 1 km and it was a loose wire on the AFM!
check the coolent temp sensor man ! they sometimes get ****ty and cause the car to run rich at idle.
better still, give all the visible electrical connections a good clean.
thanks heaps guys- I really do appreciate everyones comments. Nice to know there are some people out there who give a **** and are willing to help.
While everyone above had different ideas you all seem to be suggesting sensors. I will have a look at them all on the weekend. Have to go and buy a multi meter and a manual.
Ps. Could it be anything eles- I was thinking last night it could be a tainted fuel tank. Has anyone else had problems with their tanks. As they are now 15 years old they may be starting to reach the end of their time.
Just a quick suggestion. When it does happen at idle disconnect the plug to the AFM for a coupla seconds and then plug it back in(While car is still idling). Mine and my bros VLT's used to do it a lot and that seemed to fix it (for a while at least ).
Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
Dude!
i have the exact same problem!
Exactly!
Mine is now sitting in my driveway because it wont start because it is running soo incredibly rich.
Im fresh out of ideas. I've changed the AFM, the temp sensor and the 02 sensor.
I get no crank angle sensor code.
The only real code i get is one for the "ignition signal". I have nfi what that is but i assume it would clear up if i take my car for a drive.. but i can't.
Pleeasse help us :cry:
hahahahahahahahahahahahahahahaha
sorry, I feel like such a fool.
went home last night and started tearing out the AFM and O2 wiring looking for obvious faults. Noticed a sucking noise when she conked out. looked around and found the problem.
You see she was broken into a couple of weeks ago and the pricks stole the boost gague. ripped and tore until they got it out- ****ed the dash etc etc.
I left the vaccum hose attached to the plennum so I could just feed the new line along the same path (and put a plug in the hose). The hose has cracked and slipped off and the plenum was now sucking air straight from the engine bay. Put the old plug back on and she runs like a dream.
there- thats my story.
BUT
I know the problem I desribed still exists. I know it will come back sooner or later and I would like to be prepared.
I know this sounds silly but a while back on this forum I read some guys spraying CRC or WD40 in the terminal connection of the AFM. I did this a couple of months back and it seemed to solve the problem until my latest debacle described above.
Madhatter- give it a go- I don't know or understatnd why but it seemed to make an instant improvement for me. (Also had your boost gague stolen lately? heheheheh)
ps. The menu says 1 reply but I count 10?????? WTF
Anyways- we will keep on slugging on- thanks heaps guys
Ignition circuit code usually refers to your Power Transistor (the thing hanging off the side of your distributor). Check the power leads to that etc. but usually if that is ****ed the car wont go at all....
