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Shuddering from rear when Auto goes into 4th (overdrive)

Started by RED88VL · 16 Oct 2002 · 22 replies

Preserved from CalaisTurbo. Original authors and dates are shown; archived members are not current Holdcom accounts.

RED88VLArchived member
I picked up my new 6cyl N/A VL just yesterday, and driving back i noticed that when going along the freeway at 80k, when the PWR button is off, and the gearbox drops from 3rd into 4th, there is a rather loud shuddering from the rear (enough to rattle the bootlid and the spare tire tools i think) which lasts about a 1/2 second, and then 4th gear acts as normal, until i punch the accellerator, it goes to 3rd, ease off, and it drops into 4th with the shudder (sounds like going over tram tracks or a ripple strip) anyone know where i could find the source of the noise? it only happens going to 4th, so perhaps it could be the gearbox not the diff Also, if the fuel pump is making its gurgling noises (sucking noise) even when idling on a level grade, is it time for a new one? (a mate said it might just be the filter?) cheers in advance
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turbolukeArchived member
that shuddering noise is the lock-up toque convertor not engaging properly, when they are stuffed they shudder as they engage. It is kind of like a fifth gear when it enagages. It is only for economy and can be easily disabled, car drives better without it in my opinion. Turbos did not have these. You can simply disable it by poping the cover off the trany computer (below steering wheel) and snipping the light blue wire. try it out, if you dont like it you can pay like $300+ to get it fixed noisy pump is probly just the in tank pump and associated tubing, replacement is a bit over $100 + labour. check out the in take tubing first
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RED88VLArchived member
so if i cut the blue wire, does that mean that i will no longer reach 4th gear? are there any repercussions about cutting it? (ie will the automatic shifting still work properly?)
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MidzArchived member
Do u have to snip.... or can u just unplug it ??? Or do u have to check them connected and just snip that wire ?? thanks
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turbolukeArchived member
you can kinda unclip the wire out of the loom (difficult) when i did it to my old NA calais i simply put a switch so i could disable it if i wished, only ever used it at 100kmh as it would work fine at that speed. If you snip the wire you will still have 4th gear, the lockup torque convertor simply elimates tranny slip in 4th only and lowers the revs by about 200 rpm when enagaged. gives the car a real doughy feel though. Turbo models never had a lock up convertor because they are weak, it will work fine and feel better if you disable it
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SIK VLArchived member
This happens in mine. I was told like $1600 bucks to get fixed! I was told i needed a rebuild. So if i snip the blue wire, the rpm drops when i fourth but not a significant amount? So is there any point?
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RED88VLArchived member
$1600!!!!! I just bought this damn car! this is going to ruin my day :/
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SIK VLArchived member
Lol man dont worry mine needed a rebuilt engine as well. U can drive around in it fine. Unless u want economy on long trips. When u sell the car, take it to the wreckers and theyll fit a good one in for about 500ish with warrenty. + theres boxes for around 300 in the trader all the time.
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GerbsArchived member
Hmmmmm Check your transmission mounts man I had the same problem years ago with my VL Royale.... turned out to be the mounts were knackered. replaced them, no vibrations! Only did it in 4th & when the trans locked.... and only under acceleration
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SIK VLArchived member
really thats interesting, but my box was serviced and the fluid smells burnt
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nathoArchived member
dont cut anything, just unplug it underneath the car!! if you dont like it like that just plug it back in. both mine and my brothers are unplugged. its quite annoying actually. lockup clutches are good for economy but in the VL they dont seem to be implemented very well. in newer cars if you put your foot down a bit it stays in 4th and the lockup clutch disengages.. in the VL it stays on until it drops back to 3rd.. which may sound OK but there isnt enough torque down low for that.. anyway good luck Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
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exchaserArchived member
yeah dont cut any wires man.. just get under the car and unplug the lockup clutch solenoid.. its located on the cat (exhaust side) of the gearbox and its easy as to undo. Just find the little cylinder (looks like a metal film container, in size) and follow the wiring from that to the connector which is attached to a piece of metal to hold it in place, remove it from that and then unplug. u will like the fact that it no longer shudders.. but u'll notice the fuel economy change. :P Ollie
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turbolukeArchived member
haha dont cut the wire it will explode! just cut it and put a switch on it so you can activate it on the freeway at 100 kmh, will work fine at higher speeds if you only have minor probs with it now. cut it, its easier........you know you want to.......just dont cut it right next to connector Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
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my88vlArchived member
I had the same thing happen a few times and the mechanic i go to said it was the lockup torque converter. But as the guys have said, i'd check the tranny mounts as i drove a VK once and the thing had rooted tranny mounts... and it shuddered so bad i gave up on the thing. Engine mounts may be a problem to.
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RED88VLArchived member
alright guys thanks for this you've been real helpful ill send it into the mechanic next week, and hes going to pop in a new fuel pump and basically ill get him have a look over the car, check the torque converter and trannie mounts and engine mounts etc ill try unplugging the torque conv and drive around and see how it goes, then i might put a switch on Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
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pmpnvlArchived member
Quote: i simply put a switch so i could disable it if i wished, only ever used it at 100kmh as it would work fine at that speed. what was the rating on the switch u put in? ie current capacity and voltage rating? btw, i agree that the lock-up engages to early. generally they engage at bout 67km/h, but i think they should engage at bout 80km/h. the engine just doesnt have enough torque down low to pull between 65 - 80 at 8km/h
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nathoArchived member
Quote: Originally Posted by pmpnvl Quote: i simply put a switch so i could disable it if i wished, only ever used it at 100kmh as it would work fine at that speed. what was the rating on the switch u put in? ie current capacity and voltage rating? btw, i agree that the lock-up engages to early. generally they engage at bout 67km/h, but i think they should engage at bout 80km/h. the engine just doesnt have enough torque down low to pull between 65 - 80 at 8km/h the best thing would be a vacuum switch, i think. that way it could come on, and you could (with a bit of mucking around) adjust the switch so that it only allows the circut to be complete when there is a certain amount of vacum... that way it will use it when cruising and maybe at light load (depending on how you did it) and then disengages with a bit more load, insdead of just going all the way to 3rd like they normally do.
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pmpnvlArchived member
awsome idea natho, but details would b great.
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nathoArchived member
Quote: Originally Posted by pmpnvl awsome idea natho, but details would b great. well mate, its just that, an idea. havent looked into it yet, and i probably wont as i wont have my n/a for that much longer, and most of my driving is around town so it suits me to have it unplugged.
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spiritfcArchived member
Yeah, i change to 4th when i reach 80 and over otherwise the car keeps dropping gears to mantain the same speed, then again when the girl has a turbo soon it might be different Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
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