Hi, I was reading in another thread about how every1 hand brake doesn't work, some just badly and others not at all :? U all probably know how the stupid handbrake setup is, small drum brake inside the rear disk rotor. The brake cable moves the top of the brake shoes apart while the bottom is a fixed non auto adjusting thread. Most brake shoes getting worn down now, the bottom needs manually adjusting and it will work much better (more surface area contact), maybe enough to hold the car on a slope 8O Rip off the back wheels, and rotors (if u can), and flick the little adjusting wheel around with a flat screw driver (it's locked by a spring). U might also have to remove the rubber gromit from behind the adjust (i think it there so u can adjust it without removing the wheels but it easier to!!). With the handbrake relased, adjust it out untill the rotor is a tight fit to put back on, it should freewheel when the shoes line up with the worn spot inside the rotor. Put the wheels back on and adjust the cable so it takes 6 clicks to hold the car!! wow that'll be a first Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Even when adjusted correctly they dont lock the treads. Its because the diameter of the shoe / drum assy is too small, and because of the disc is too rigid (shape and thickness), normal drum assys go oval when shoes applied, this helps the effectiveness.

Quote: Originally Posted by HSVSUX Even when adjusted correctly they dont lock the treads. Yeah thats was my point by saying kinda works!!

what about just changing your handbrake shoes and rotors in the rear? anything hard about doing that yourself?

yeah my handbrake is ***ed, im gonna try this method maybe it will save me buying a new handbrake cable! -Jay

My prob is a bit different, my hand brake if i adjust as mentioned its fine until i drive over a bump, something must strech and lock the wheels up, so its now diconnected, and yes my car is low!

yeah that happen to me too, got stuck on a drive way, 1 rear wheel in the gutter, 1 on the foot path, hand brake off but 1 wheel was locked. That was after adjusting the cable right up to pass a roadworthy... After that i checked it out and adjusted the bottom of the shoes, no prob since! Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Quote: Originally Posted by JET-6 My prob is a bit different, my hand brake if i adjust as mentioned its fine until i drive over a bump, something must stretch and lock the wheels up, so its now diconnected, and yes my car is low! Hi JET-6 yep, been there done that... I found at full travel of the rear suspension in my newly lowered car the handbrake cable was pulled taught by the cable location tab that is mounted half way along the lower control arm. Pull your rear wheel of whilst your trolley jack is under one side of the diff and you will see what I'm talking about. I opened it up with some vice grips and a shifter - viola! no more brakegrab. (I am told that this was subject of a safety notice by GMH when they were new BTW)

i know its a old tread/////// But how do you take your rotors off so i can see the drum linings for the hand break... Ive adjusted and adjusted and rights really good but lefts no go. right wheel locks up but left does not its like its worn out of somthing? Help WOuld be realllyyy great! my work shop manual does not tell me as well how to take the rotors off? thanks guys Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

bump people? HELP! Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Take wheel off. Take caliper off. Release handbrake. Pull rotor off.

thats it? i thought it would be hard?? thanks luke

no its a piece if piss and i reckon that maybe left hand side your shoes maybe cracked or worn real bad

What are the shoes worth, cheap and easy to get a hold of? Not worth adjusting, 17 odd years old they must be ****ed by now. Mine works fine (suprising ey...), but might change all the shoes just for some maintenance.

I got new rotors and shoes and handbrake locks up easily and it is lowered a lot

The rotors can be seized on, a rubber mallet is good. I can't remember if there is a threaded hole in the hub face u can screw a bolt in to push the rotor off??