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VL Commodore

HELP! N/A VL DIED.....

Started by Morgz85 · 12 Sept 2002 · 20 replies

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Morgz85Archived member
I went for a drive today, got out of the car for a while and when i got back in it started fine, got about 30 meters down the road and the tacho went to 0 but the car was still going(eg. going down hill so it was forcing the motor around still) i tried to start the car while i was still rolling but it wouldnt start. I disconnected the battery and checked plug connections on pretty much all the electrical stuff under the bonnet(eg. AFM, Power Transistor, Coil, etc.) and it still wouldnt start (would just turn over). I took the dizzy cap off and cleaned it a bit and tried it again and it started. The car lasted for about another 5kms when it once again died! i managed to get it started again but it only went for about 30 seconds then it completly died. After this i did the same as before but nothing, on one try of starting it it started up but died straight away. Any ideas??? Could it be my CAS??? Could it be my coil??? Im pretty sure it isnt fuel cause the fuel lines seem to be firm(eg. have pressure) and i can hear the fuel pump buzzing like usual when i turn the ignition on.......PLZ HELP.
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lobe grinderArchived member
Check that you have no air intake leaks after the AFM.
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Morgz85Archived member
nope none......I suspect its something in the electrics line the way the tacho just dropped to 0 like that
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Jet PilotArchived member
i had the prob with revs goin straight to zero with the air intake piping being a bit loose... but u said thats not ur problem... all i did was like launch the car a bit and the car just went ka-put., all it was, was the connection from the afm pipe part to that little join inbetween that and the main air intake pipe to the engine..... i know one other problem is crank angle sensor plug.. mine had actually disengrated wiring almost and yeah the car wouldnt start.... just keep turning, u touch that plug and it was boiling... got it rewired and started straight away..... i'd just check every wiring plug and clean them.. let us know how u go cheers
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Morgz85Archived member
Thanks for the replies! Anyone else?? Ill see to it tomorrow(cuz i aint feelin the best atm cuz i just had 2 teeth removed! 8O ), hopefully its nothing too major!
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my88vlArchived member
Morgz mate, It sounds like either a CAS, or the Air pipe that Mike mentioned... i had a similar problem in my other cars on hot days but that was a fuel thing. Yours sounds electrical for sure. 1 - Try the duct from the Air Flow piping to the top of the rocker cover, i had mine snap and cause some issues, similar to what you've mentioned to. 2 - Check the CAS wiring, try the cat piss (WD40) on the pins and stuff, and if that doesn't work, then you could try the coil. If the CAS is buggered, let me know cos i have a spare one floating round you can have for $50... in PERFECT nick to.
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Morgz85Archived member
How much is it for a new CAS?? Where abouts do you live?? I remember the small pipe comming off the intake duct going into the rocker cover had broken a short while ago, i super glued it back on, could this be causing this??
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Jet PilotArchived member
it'll be fine as long as there is no breakages or cracks mate... my88vl is from Brisbane too.. you could try replacing that piping? i cant see it costing 2 much.. cheers
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platinumArchived member
Yeah, that sounds like about what happened to me when my CAS died, $157 from repco (new) or someone mentioned just going an buying a new distrubuter with one already in it from the wreckers... It used to start alright when it was cool, but as soon as it got hot...
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bluvltArchived member
I paid $119 for a CAS last week from Bursons, was at trade price, but Its not hard to trick them just say that you are from "Bob's Mechanical" or something like that and they will give you a beter price. Its even easier if you ring them up first and say your from "Bobs mechanical" and you get a mate to make "workshop noises" in the backround (banging, swearing etc) then you ask for a price and availibilty and say youll be down in 15mins, turn up and say your here to pick up the part. If they question you say your bobs son, pay for it and off you go. BTW you can do this with any parts you need Back to the topic: I recon it sounds like yous CAS, my first VL did a similar thing to what you are describing, taco will go to zero cause CAS isn't telling the coil to fire basicly. Good Luck
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platinumArchived member
Quote: Originally Posted by bluvlt I paid $119 for a CAS last week from Bursons, was at trade price, but Its not hard to trick them just say that you are from "Bob's Mechanical" or something like that and they will give you a beter price. Its even easier if you ring them up first and say your from "Bobs mechanical" and you get a mate to make "workshop noises" in the backround (banging, swearing etc) then you ask for a price and availibilty and say youll be down in 15mins, turn up and say your here to pick up the part. If they question you say your bobs son, pay for it and off you go. haha -- thanks for that, gave me a laugh Might have to try it sometime Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
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Morgz85Archived member
Thanks, i got in my car this morning and it started first go but i bought a new CAS from Burson's $140 incl. new bearing and plug. I rewired the plug with the new one and installed the new CAS! All seems fine apart from the timing wont go back any further than 10degrees, i tried taking the dizzy out and putting it back a notch but the car wont even start like that! So i have just left it being a bit out but i can still get the timing on 20 degrees. Any ideas on how to fix this prob??
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my88vlArchived member
Good to hear its sorted, NOT good to hear how much you guys got CAS's for.... fark i paid $275 for the part and Lube mobile to fit the *******. But then it died at work so i couldn't do alot.
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666godArchived member
LMAO!!! Quote: "workshop noises" in the backround (banging, swearing etc) ***ing funny bluvlt Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
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jordyArchived member
Morgz I think someone else had the same problem with the dizzy on here just a few days ago.....have a look around, you should find the other thread.
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jordyArchived member
Oh never mind that was you too ops: Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
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Morgz85Archived member
LOL! yeah it was me...
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RB30DEVLArchived member
You want to hope that it is the CAS which is playing up,as these ignition faults usually show up when the engine is hot (i.e. ignition coil breakdown or shorted power transistor),I had a bad connection at the CAS like 4 years ago and it blew smoke when it was cold and misfired. I had an igniton coil fail on me and the fault only showed up on a warm engine but did progress to a point where it started to fail whilst the engine was cold (car started fine but stalled after 1 minute while idling),it measured like 16 ohms on the primary where it should have been 0.9 - 1 ohm.
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BeefsVLArchived member
Check that the Centre plug on your distributor is on properly. i had the same problem and it was just that the centre plug on the distributor kept popping off while driving.
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CrusaderArchived member
im was having the same problem with my vlt it would just die out lol i driving around the court and then boom it dies out lol lucky i got it rolling up the drive way haha anyways it was the timing becuase if i changed the timing it would die out and wont start if i changed the timing a bit to something else it would start straight away and wont die out.
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