I recently bought 235-45-17 for the vl and thinking of going the whiteline The Works s/ low package and was wonerdering if anyone has this suspension to let me know if to go for that kit or not. Its $1600 fitted but im looking @ doing some other option such as a strut brace Also if I put the tires on this stock suspension without lipping the gaurds will it scrap on tyres even without any passengers ?? Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

The scrapping problem depends on the type of wheel, some will srape some wont, also some wheels have enough meat in them to machine off 10mm or so off the mounting face which can get around this if you dont want to get the hammer on the gaurds.

yeah i've got the works super low in mine and i have 235/45/17 tyres. when i fitted mine i used k-mac camber-castor upper bearing plates to set the wheel alignment up a bit different. I am now using about 4 degrees positive castor (slightly different left and right) and this actually moved the front wheels forward a fair way and they were hitting on the front bumper on big bumps. A slight modification of the front bar with an angle grinder fixed that one up. Now the rear.... the bloody thing keeps scrubbing on the left hand side even when i adjust the panhard rod to move the diff to the right. Even if someone sits on the right side of the back seat it scrubs on the left. I think that i just need to knock the inner guard out a bit more on the left side as i did both sides when i fitted the suspension but maybe i didnt do enough on the left hand side. Anyway, as HSVSUX said it really depends on your wheels and if it does scrub its an easy fix anyway. I had these wheels on my car with the std suspension and they scrubbed heaps on the rear so i lipped the guards and stopped it a bit but still scrubbed more than it does now with lower suspension in it. This would be because the new panhard rod is adjustable and you can centre the diff properly. Make sure when you order your kit you option it with the on car adjustable panhard rod - its heaps easier to adjust. anyway it handles and looks great and i would definately reccomend the kit. The scrubbing problems if you have any can be fixed quite quickly and easily so they aern't really a worry.

I purchased vx ss wheels for them and im going to chuck them on today to see how much i need it lipped and to see how they look, with the stock suspension but i wont be driving it with the wheels until i get my suspension done. I will get them to fit it properly and tell them i dont want any scraping no matter what weight i got in the back. But I want it handle really well and dont mind if its a lil harder just not really hard when there are slightly bumpy roads which would get real annoying :roll: Make sure when you order your kit you option it with the on car adjustable panhard rod - its heaps easier to adjust. yeah I'll tell them that i want the adjustable panhard rod. when i fitted mine i used k-mac camber-castor upper bearing plates to set the wheel alignment up a bit different. What difference does this make?? Should i tell them exactly that I want that done ??? Is there anything else I should know about this just let me know Thanks heaps Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Quote: I want it handle really well and dont mind if its a lil harder just not really hard when there are slightly bumpy roads which would get real annoying thats exactly what its like - handles great, the difference it made was incredible, and it is firmer than std but nothing like a lot of lowered cars. Quote: yeah I'll tell them that i want the adjustable panhard rod. the kit comes with an off car adjustable panhard rod but the on car adjustable one is heaps easier to adjust. Quote: when i fitted mine i used k-mac camber-castor upper bearing plates to set the wheel alignment up a bit different. What difference does this make?? Should i tell them exactly that I want that done ??? i only did this so i could adjust my wheel alignment, i wanted to get a lot of the camber out of it and put more castor into it. Speak to them about it and let them know what the car will be used for - evryday street, circuit etc. Whiteline make an adjustable bearing plate but you might not need it. My car was scrubbing the inside edge of my front tyres out evry 10000km and that works out expensive at $250 per tyre and i do about 35,000km a year in the car.

the kit comes with an off car adjustable panhard rod but the on car adjustable one is heaps easier to adjust. I called them up im getting all these extras FRONT Adjustable Mid Mount Strut Bar Adjustable sway bar Adjustable strut camber/castor REAR Adjustable Rear Blade Bars Adjustable upper trailing arms Adjustable panhard rod ON car He is calling me back tomorrow and get a price for me on everything with installation and I'll ask him bout this........... camber-castor upper bearing plates [/b] [/b]

What whiteline call an adjustable blade bar is not a blade bar, its just adjustable.

Quote: What whiteline call an adjustable blade bar is not a blade bar, its just adjustable. Plez explain ??? first of all what is a blade bar ?

First of all its not that the whiteline bar is not good. its just they call it something thats it not. Its hard to explain without a picture, but, a blade bar is a swaybar that has the main bar (straight piece of bar or tube) and one arm (link from main bar to attachment point on the strut if in the front) is a fixed solid bar. the blade at the other end (a piece of solid tapered bar - say 25mm diameter - that is milled on each side down to say 6mm thickness) and swivels / rotates at the connection to the main bar. If the "blade" end is vertical (machined thickness is vertical) it will be very rigid and the bar will have its normal "rate", but as you rotate the "blade" 90 degrees, the "blade" bends and therefore reduces the effective "rate" of the main bar. The big swaybar adjustment levers you see to the left of the gear stick in a V8 supercar are connected by cable to these blades. they can set the swaybar rate (front or rear) during the race, based on tyres "going off" or fuel load change. The whiteline adjustable bars are a normal looking swaybar, but instead of having an end link (like std) from the end of the bar arm to the control arm, they have a series of holes at the end of the bar and a bracket that bolts to the control arm (with several holes also) and a special link to join them together. so you are changing the swaybar "rate" by changing the arm length. (leverage) I hope this makes sense ops: :? I find it hard to explain with out showing someone or drawing it. Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Quote: Originally Posted by VLTJET the kit comes with an off car adjustable panhard rod but the on car adjustable one is heaps easier to adjust. I called them up im getting all these extras FRONT Adjustable Mid Mount Strut Bar Adjustable sway bar Adjustable strut camber/castor REAR Adjustable Rear Blade Bars Adjustable upper trailing arms Adjustable panhard rod ON car He is calling me back tomorrow and get a price for me on everything with installation and I'll ask him bout this........... camber-castor upper bearing plates [/b] [/b] what they are calling Adjustable strut camber/castor would be the bearing plates. my works kit didnt come with the adjustable rear swaybar, adjustable rear trailing arms or an "adjustable mid mount strut bar" - dont even know what that would be ????. Mine came with thicker rear swaybar, off car adjustable panhard rod, new radius rods that gave 2 degrees more pos castor, strut inserts, shocks and springs. Are you getting shocks and springs ? - if not, it's a handling kit not a works kit.

Quote: Are you getting shocks and springs ? - if not, it's a handling kit not a works kit. Yes of course im getting shocks and springs done. Quote: I hope this makes sense I find it hard to explain with out showing someone or drawing it. I find it hard to understand coz i dont know much bout it sorry He didnt find out prices for me as just yet he'll ring me tomorrow. Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

I just had this kit put in my car today. I've only driven from the garage to home so I can't really comment to much at the moment. It does however feel a lot more stable/firmer. More of a test tomorrow (Friday) so I'll have more comments tomorrow night.

k dude I'll check the post tomorrow then tell me exactly what u had done ??? thanks Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

I got the Super Low package which consists of the following: Springs/shocks all round, front and rear swaybars (stabilizer bars) and panard rod. The kit is suppose to come with front adjustable radius rods but Whiteline's are currently out of stock of these. Apparently won't have them back in stock until October. I also had the front lower ball joints replaced as they were stuffed. My car was already lowered, but the previous owner had done a dodgy job. Cut springs in the back and no adjustable panard bar so the diff was off centred. All shocks had been replaced with Monroe GT variety. When car was lifted at the rear springs would drop out from the top. This is extremely dangerous especially when travelling at speed and driving on rough roads. Front and back swaybars were all standard. As for the car now it's 1000% better. Feels better, handles better, rides better. Haven't really tried pushing it to hard yet but for just general driving it's heaps better. No rear end noises from cut springs and panard rod hitting exhuast. Steering is more direct and resposive. Although I need to re-centre my steering wheel to centre. It has always been a little off centre but since the Whitelines kit has gone in it seems to be a little worse. Going to fix that today. Ride heigt seems good. Doesn't scrub, even though it could possibly could with four people in the car, have to test that. At the moment I'm only running 16x7 (225 50 series) wheels so there shouldn't be to much trouble with rubbing gaurds. I do however imagine I'll have trouble with speed humps but I always have, just have to go around them or don't drive where there's speed humps. Cheers, Matt