Right, this thread is for detailing which mods are good for your non-turbo'ed VL's -- I've listed a few below, if anyone wants to go more indepth, please do and maybe we won't need 100 threads explaining the same thing Rule #1 DON'T post **** or discuss anything in this thread -- we want to keep it clean and simple okay If you REALLY need to find out more information about a mod, or are having trouble, use the search function (http://www.ozperformance.net/search.php) and THEN if you don't find anything make a new thread... - Gavin ----------------------------------------------------------- Mod List: - Exhaust / Extractors (2 1/4 inch or 2 1/2 inch with extrators) - Advanced Timing (~ 20 degrees on PULP) - Cold Air Intake mods, (K&N filter and/or custom piping) - Cam and Chip Package - Changing of gear rations (3.9 -> 4.11) - Port and polish of heads Qik_HDT has a nice thread regarding a few 'major' mods you can do (Click Here (http://www.ozperformance.net/viewtopic.php?t=2406)) Post your VL n/a Performance Tips now! Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

A high flow catalyctic converter on the exhaust makes good power. Perhaps people will start new threads if they want to go into detail about the mods, and want prices etc.

By High-Flow Catalytic Converter do you mean a gutted out old one, or a new High-Flow one? Mine looks like its gonna fall off or something so I'm looking at replacing it... do you have any prices?

I mean both, its up to you which way you want to do it. Last time i asked for a price it was about $350, but shop around cos exhaust dealers are all different.

Guttered out cat.. is the way Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Or no cat at all..... gotta love sensible motoring regulations here in NZ Anyone actually tried out one of those centrifigal superchargers yet? Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

You mean like those e-Ram things? I'd buy one if they worked and weren't called 'e-Ram'... 8)

Quote: Rule #1 DON'T post **** or discuss anything in this thread hrmm... ??? some people ! :roll: :roll: :roll:

gearbox mods: stage 3 shift kit and hi-stall and if you want to get serious mini tubs [/code][/list] Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

how much would the 2 1/2 inch exhaust system cost roughly

Make sure you go for a 2.5 inch straight through mandrel bent system,don't let any muffler shop tell you that you don't need mandrel bends and a straight through muffler,as I had a press bent backflow 2.5 inch system on my VL when I bought it (cat was also gutted out),at 20 degrees BTDC on Shell Optimax it made bugger all difference to performance,it wasn't noticeable till I removed it,fitted 3 inch nipples onto a "non gutted" standard cat and fitted the whole straight through 3 inch system from my other totalled VL onto it,the car went better. Also do not let them make a song and dance about noise pollution and talk you into fitting a resonator,all this really does is reduces the "bang,bang" noise on deceleration and so called quieten it down a bit,in some cases it makes it louder. If in the Newcastle area go to Graham Lillford exhausts out at Thornton,he is about the only person in the Hunter region with a mandrel pipe bender,he is also cheap.

get a manual ~$900. 4.11 diff ratio ~150$. 2.5 exhaust with no semi gutted cat ~$300. (so pits dont tap it and realise it is hollow by sound). chip it if you want 1kw ~500$. cold air intake ~10$. lumpier cam ~180$. port and polish ~too much. by this stage you will end up like me wishing you had of invested in a turbo to begin with.

Yes! toss the auto out,it is the best thing I ever did,but a 4.11:1 diff ratio I believe is way,way too low for a 3 litre VL,someone in New Zealand even went to a 3.45:1 ratio in an RB25DET powered VL as the RB20E powered VL's were released with the previously mentioned diff ratio,which his (Guido Seevens ) car used to have in it as the original ratio was even too low for that engine. The cliched approach I am going to mention for an N/A conversion is just to go for a multi valved head and lift the RPM's up,also fit the RB25 DE pistons . Failing that,if you want more torque just turbo the single cam engine. Don't bother turboing the RB30DET unless you have a fair bit of money to spend and you want huge horsepower (be honest with how much power,torque,etc you actually want for the street),I am talking about power levels like 300 - 400 KW,as I have calculated this engine will put out about 250 kw with a TO4E turbo,that's on about 6 PSI of boost,also the turbo won't be running at its full efficiency. This turbo would be more suited to the RB30ET at 250 kw as it can run higher boost (say 10 PSI) without going crazy on horsepower and also be more efficient. 200 odd kilowatts is enough for me so that's why I have opted for the RB30DE,it will be fuel efficient,won't suffer from turbo lag and be cheaper to build as parts such as the pistons out of the donor engine which would normally be wasted are used,also saves spending extra money on a turbocharger and maybe bigger injectors,management,etc.

That QIK_HDT is full of himself! 13.9 @ 118mph!! Haha! it should be more like 13.9 @ 99mph. If you wanted to get serious i'd do it like this: RB26 head, RB30 bottom end, ARGO rods, forged pistons, head ported, 11.5:1 compression, the biggest TODA cams from Japan, GTR injectors, bigger fuel pump, everything balanced and prepped accordingly, Microtech computer, custom inlet manifold with 3 injection perfection throttle bodies with bellmouths, custom extractors into a mandral bent 3inch system, 5 speed gearbox a must!! VLT diff with 4.11 diff gears. And i would personally throw on a 6 port 200hp NOS kit. There is alot of money there!! $25,000 or so!

Yeah some people like to modify cars themselves rather than just sitting back and watching other people build the **** for them. Most people don't have that kinda money to spend on just an engine either.. :roll: :roll:

i have got -rebuilt motor -extractors -advanced timing 20 degrees -2.5 lukey with 3inch tip -pod filter -cold air induction -super 4 spark plugs (increased grap) future mods are HEAD work, CHip and Cam package and a LSD diff

i did have - rebuilt motor - extractors and 3 inch system - wade cam - link computer - 5 speed - VLT diff with 4.11's ran a 14.5 @ 94mph then put 100hp nitrous on, blew a headgasket and further inspection revealed the valves were pulling through the head.

I own a N/A VL berlina which has - rebuilt motor - extractors with 2 1/2 inch exhaust - 5 speed manual - standard diff with LSD and 4.11's - uni-filter - high-flow cat and high-flow muffler and she runs and sounds like a weapon!!!!!!! - I've beat a every standard v6 commodore in the market - last race was against a VX manual, big exhaust, extractors, LSD and i killed him by 4 car lengths!!!!

hmmm some how steve i dont think he was trying.

An R31 boy here in Adelaide running RB30E auto with a bit of trans work has 135.5rwkw @ 5500rpm from his engine. Mods are AVO Stage 3 cam, HP3 chip, Apexi AFC, head work port and polish, extractors, 2.5" exhaust, tuned on a dyno.