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N/A VL Idle Problems / Cold Start

Started by snewpy · 5 Aug 2002 · 12 replies

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snewpyArchived member
Hi, My VL Exec with no mods other than a K&N air filter & after market cruise control has recently been a real problem to get started on colder mornings (about 7 degrees). It starts, but won't hold idle, coughs and splutters, then stalls. I couldn't get it started at all, so I got the RACV out and the guy turned the idle up something stupid, now I can do about 30km/h without touching the accelerator. I want to turn this back down, but I don't have a tacho, so can I just adjust it by the "It sounds okay" method, or is there anything I should watch for? Also I get a nasty sounding tapping noise (like metal on metal really quickly) for about a minute and a half when the car starts, it then disappears for about 30 seconds, then reappears kind of on/off for a few minutes. Is this the lifters? Should I be concerned? Thanks Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
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Jet PilotArchived member
depends on how he made the idle higher... if he just tightened the accelerator cable over its limit to keep idle up, thats easy to fix... take the accelerator cable off the bracket when the car is warm and idling normal and loosen the cable until it fits back on the bracket (holding between the 2 nuts) and the cable is nice and firm and the idle is the same as it is when u took it off completely when warm... if that makes sense... another way he could of done it was via the computer but u would have seen him do that i assume... i think there is another idle control thingy in the engine bay u can turn but i dont know exactly where... someone will..... hope this helps -Mike
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snewpyArchived member
Quote: Originally Posted by Jet Pilot i think there is another idle control thingy in the engine bay u can turn but i dont know exactly where... someone will..... hope this helps He turned the screw at the back of the inlet manifold. I know how to turn it back, just wondering if there's a certain point I shouldn't go below, or if "it starts, it must be okay" is an acceptable method of adjustment?
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Jet PilotArchived member
yeah ok cool, i'd turn it back until ur car takes off at like under 5k that should be about normal i guess, u should be able to hear the engine idle anyway... and yeah if the car starts is a good way to go :P let us know how it goes
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turbolukeArchived member
oops wrong thread
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snewpyArchived member
Quote: Originally Posted by Jet Pilot let us know how it goes Well last night I turned it back, and it's sorted it. I cleaned the oxygen sensor up a bit and that seems to have solved the cold start issue and make it run a fair amount smoother. A note for anyone who's interested, it took about fifteen minutes of driving after changing the mixture for it to actually take effect (computer learning??), until that, it was exactly as crap as it was before I started. Thanks for your help.
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lobe grinderArchived member
[quote="snewpy"] Quote: Originally Posted by Jet Pilot let us know how it goes I cleaned the oxygen sensor up a bit and that seems to have solved the cold start issue and make it run a fair amount smoother. quote] Hey dude what did u do to clean the oxygen sensor? mine does the same thing in the morning.
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snewpyArchived member
Quote: Originally Posted by lobe grinder Hey dude what did u do to clean the oxygen sensor? mine does the same thing in the morning. Not sure if it was the right thing to do, or what other implications it might have, but it "Works for Me(tm)" -- get some surgical spirits from your local chemist normally for a couple of dollars for 250mL (if you're in Victoria it seems pretty difficult stuff to come by, make sure it doesn't contain iodine, and that it's at least 97% alcohol). Use some of those cotton tips with the spirits on it to clean the gunk off the sensor. All care, no responsiblity. I'm sure someone will chime in if this is a stupid thing to do Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
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vl_gruntArchived member
... just buy a new one. I bought a new NGK one from a local auto shop, cost me 70 bucks. You should replace them after about 80,000km, and most of us have done more than that. Save ya self the trouble, trust me and just buy a new one cheers Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
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lobe grinderArchived member
arrr 70 bucks goddamn! i think i will look for my spare, if i can find it. i'll clean that using snewpys technique and give that a go. thanx dudes
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snewpyArchived member
Quote: Originally Posted by snewpy Also I get a nasty sounding tapping noise (like metal on metal really quickly) for about a minute and a half when the car starts, it then disappears for about 30 seconds, then reappears kind of on/off for a few minutes. Is this the lifters? Should I be concerned? Anyone got any thoughts on this one? And if it's the lifters, how hard is it to do them myself, and what sort of price should I pay for a new set of them (there's 12 isn't there?)
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lobe grinderArchived member
yeah dude they're just the lifters, i wouldn't be too worried. Happens to everyones RB30, just needs time to let the oil circulate. You would be worried if you found out how much a set of new lifters cost though. I'm gonna try cleaning that oxy sensor tonight. cheers.
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Morgz85Archived member
Quote: Originally Posted by lobe grinder yeah dude they're just the lifters, i wouldn't be too worried. Happens to everyones RB30, just needs time to let the oil circulate. You would be worried if you found out how much a set of new lifters cost though. I'm gonna try cleaning that oxy sensor tonight. cheers. Yeah true, the lifters are around $50-$60 each times that by 12 and well they arent cheap little buggers to replace. If they are bad (eg. are tapping all the time even after the car has warmed up) then replace just the ones needed, get hold of a manual it tells you how to replace them and how to check for wear.
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