I read an article in Autospeed about a bloke who does up the ford six(4.0lt??) from 112kw up to 180kw. Now I know the easiest way to get the maxium power out of a VL is to simply turbo it but as far as I'm concerned it would be easier just to buy a turbo VL rather then doing a NA up to be one and I already have a really nice NA Series 2 Calais so I don't want to get rid of it. What I want to do thought is get the maxium amount of power out of the RB30 without putting a turbo on. Has anyone got any ideas??? I've alread got a 2.5 Genie exhaust, extractors, cold air intake etc. What next?? I don't want to go to the HUGE expense of puting the 2.5lt twin cam head from the skyline on it though. What can be done to my head or what camshaft would be best??? CHEERS!!!

yeah what the ****, every time some one posts about getting more out of the n/a everyone just says save up for turbo or your wasting your money by moddin the N/a.......but seriously other then the total head conversion what else can be done?? Realistically??

i've investigated this line of thought.... and pretty quickly listing mods to do to the n/a to get it goin a little better exhaust filter / cold air higher ratio diff gears put a better cam in headwork to match the specs of the cam higher stall (to match cam power range) & shift kit or manual conversion reprogram the ecu make sure that the ecu is the last thing on your list, so it only needs to be done once to match what you've done to the car... the trick is to get all the specs to match up.. getting a huge lumpy cam, and massive headwork that doesnt match the specs will only waste fuel and not give you the power you want... get the right stuff, right specs, and the combination above will put the n/a into the 14's pretty easily - enough to scare a few turbo vl's out there (and the look on a vl turbo drivers face when you tell them its n/a is priceless ) yes - you could spend 1/2 as much getting a turbo faster - but this isnt what this discussion is about if you want more - then the expensive stuff comes out - higher compression pistons (full motor rebuild)... and of course, as mentioned the twin cam head... Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Check out www.sure-cam.com and look for RB30 in the catalogue for a performance camshaft. Other than what is mentioned above, get Nitrous! Although it would blow up a high K motor. :twisted:

to get a cam, u need a performance chip so the coupla hundred for a cam soon turns into a few more (try $700) for the package. god damn efi Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

bullsh!t... i have a rather large cam in my car without doing sweet fa to my ecu and it runs pretty well in the range it was designed to (there is a little issue of cam timing though, but that will be fixed up later). yes, a reprogrammed ecu to match your cam will take full advantage of your cam, but it is NOT needed for you to run an aftermarket cam...

Chiptorque say the standard VL has 76kw!!! What bull****. It has 114kw doesn't it??? Description: HP3 High Performance Chip and mild Camshaft to suit extractors, 2 �" sports exhaust and catalytic converter for low to mid range increases. Radical gains in power are what you get from these performance upgrades. The VL Commodore will experience a 18kW gain at the wheels when fitted with a ChipTorque Chip and Camshaft package, that's a 23% increase in overall power! Plus installation. more info... kW Standard: 76 kW with CT Chip: 94 kW Gain: 18 automatic

76kw at the wheels

What kw is your car at

Quote: Originally Posted by spiritfc Chiptorque say the standard VL has 76kw!!! What bull****. It has 114kw doesn't it??? ... 76wk at the wheels, the vl has 114kw at the flywheel, a lot of power is lost in the drivetrain.

Hi All, Before I bought my latest VL, I had an '86 VL Berlina with a 5 speed box and the whole thing was as stock as they come. I sold it at Willowbank the night I ran 13.9 @ 118mph. I'll let you in on what you should do. 1. Seal off the little air intake snorkle and cut a hole through the bottom of the stock box. Using 90mm PVC down pipe, and 45 degree connections, run the pipe to just behind your front spoiler. Put a K&N panel air filter in the standard box. Don't think about using that flexible piping for the cold air, it's not as effective. 2. Have the cylinders bored 30 thou 3. Fit high compression forged flat top pistons. I used Ross pistons 4. Shave the head 20 thou 5. Have the head heavily ported, polished and hi-flowed 6. Fit Pacemaker 1.75" mandrel bent extractors, a 2.5" mandrel bent pipe from the extractors to the 2.5" high flow cat, then a 2.5" mandrel bent pipe to the straight through Lukey muffler and a 3" mandrel bent pipe from the muffler to the nice tip 7. Stage 3 "Crow Cams" cam 8. Bosch Motorsport fuel pump 9. Bosch 150 390cc injectors 10. Haltech computer with active 3D ignition and fuel timing adjustments. I put a VL turbo LSD onto it and it tell you, it ran like a dream. It all cost $12000 including the price of the car. Other than the engine mods, the car itself was shmik. I did most myself, but the things that I couldn't eg:- shaving the head, boring the cylinders I had done at trade price. The joys of being a panel beater/spray painter. If anyone needs a hand getting hold of something I can be of help. I hope this post has been useful to some, and not just a waste of everyone's time. Although N/A's that are done properly are good, turbo's kick ass!!!

MY advice,don't go for a large cam,you will lose your low down economy & it will be as driveable in town as an RB20 powered Commodore or something,a mild cam is better for the street and the large cam is better on the racetrack for topend power. Someone has a VL with a worked single cam engine (standard bottom end) which puts out 195 HP but the cheaper route would be the RB25DE head conversion for around $1500 if done by yourself,it will flow more like an engine with a large cam without affecting bottom end power.

Another thing I would seriously recomend is water injection, I know it sounds strange,but it is quite simple you inject a jet of water in with your air intake, it cools the air while going into the engine, when it is in the cylinder it raises the point at which detonation/pinging will ocur because the air is cooler and for other reasons that are too hard to explain (look on the internet) when the fuel combusts the water turns to steam and forces the piston down harder, therefor more power, then the steam come out with your exhaust gasses. I had a water injection stup on my old N/A VL and I could run 35degrees advance timing (as far as the dizzy would go, and I was too lazy to pull it out and move it another tooth along) with no pinging, The car was an auto without a stally it also had 2.5inch exhaust, CAM (crow cam, no chip) and cold air. With this setup I could keep up with and beet some standard VL Turbos, the look on their faces was great. The only thing you have to be careful with is seting the water injection up, if you inject to much then the car really bogs down, not enuf and it pings, its not too hard to setup, just takes a bit of time. You can also mix half water and half methenol and get even better results, I had a mate who used that on a supercharged VT commodore, it worked very well (just remeber to top the water up)

On top of that cold air intakes,shell Optimax fuel & a mandrel bent sports exhaust system. One of my Vl's (which has a bent chassis due to a crash) had a cold air intake & used Shell Optimax,this boosted the power up considerably along with a 3" straight through exhaust system. Note that a 2.5 inch mandrel bent system is all is needed for an n/a VL six,but I fitted the 3 inch system for the future. Note I mentioned my smashed VL,at the time it was damn close to rego and I urgently needed a car so I bought another rusty VL for 2 grand with a full years rego on it,which we have cut all of the rust out of & resprayed,the damaged VL my brother & I are planning on doing chassis repairs to the damaged VL,for a good performing N/A VL ,how does a 383 stroker v8 sound?

Does it come with its own petrol station? wink

13.9 @ 118mph! stop pulling your ****! to run 118mph in a vl you need 350+rwhp! that's over 420hp at the motor. NOS is the answer. or twin cam head, HKS cams, 13:1 compression, microtech computer, 6 throttle bodies on custom exhaust manifold, custom extractors into 3 inch exhaust, 5 speed manual, turbo diff with 4.11's.

Quote: Originally Posted by bluvlt Another thing I would seriously recomend is water injection, I know it sounds strange,but it is quite simple you inject a jet of water in with your air intake, it cools the air while going into the engine, when it is in the cylinder it raises the point at which detonation/pinging will ocur because the air is cooler and for other reasons that are too hard to explain (look on the internet) when the fuel combusts the water turns to steam and forces the piston down harder, therefor more power, then the steam come out with your exhaust gasses. I had a water injection stup on my old N/A VL and I could run 35degrees advance timing (as far as the dizzy would go, and I was too lazy to pull it out and move it another tooth along) with no pinging, The car was an auto without a stally it also had 2.5inch exhaust, CAM (crow cam, no chip) and cold air. With this setup I could keep up with and beet some standard VL Turbos, the look on their faces was great. The only thing you have to be careful with is seting the water injection up, if you inject to much then the car really bogs down, not enuf and it pings, its not too hard to setup, just takes a bit of time. You can also mix half water and half methenol and get even better results, I had a mate who used that on a supercharged VT commodore, it worked very well (just remeber to top the water up) so funny you mention this. Sitting in the car yesterday comming back from a local drag meet, i was discussing this with a friend of mine. Could you give us more details on where, and what to set up?

Yeah I want to know about this too!

originally posted on 21-08-02, 19:14 FUCK! that's one old post.

yeah im a post ravenger :P