Hey all Just a few quick questions.
I've read about some people removing the mesh in the airflow meter, what benifit does this have, and how much?
Also how much power can i expect from advancing my timing? I already run the car on BP Ultimate. Will the power be noticable?
Cheers guys.
If you have a timing light than setting the STATIC ignition timing advance to 20 degrees btdc will make a noticable difference.
Pulling the mesh out of your AFM will give better flow but you probably won't notice it at all.
A good mod is set your AFM to 382 ohms resistance to give a better fuel mixture.
Pull the loom plug off the AFM, as well as the cover off the round part next to it (use a screw driver and prise it off) grab an ohm meter, put the needles on the two outer pins (eg. 1 and 6) and turn the screw until it reads 382! It should idle better and be more responsive.
ive neva heard about that afm stuff b4
and i got my timing advanced 20 deg today. trust me u can feel the change hehe
tell us how this afm werks out. i got a spare 1 so i might give it a try this w/e
Using 382 ohms resistance might give u a better fuel consumption its hard to say. It helps my car idle better. Also if you remember what you're AFM reads before turning the screw, and u find u don't like what it does or it uses too much fuel than just set it back to what it was!
Also would be a good idea to use premium unleaded if you're timing is advanced, and premium definately gives u better highway mileage.
Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
So changing it to 382ohms will change the fuel/air mix to a more optimal setting? So this will give what, better acceleration? Is that what you find you get?
Can anyone post how exactly to adjust the timing, or post a link on how to do it on a VL... i've got no idea about most things mechanical.
Seems a LOT of people want to know how to do this anyway
Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
Quote:
Originally Posted by platinum
Can anyone post how exactly to adjust the timing, or post a link on how to do it on a VL... i've got no idea about most things mechanical.
Seems a LOT of people want to know how to do this anyway
You'll need a timing light, which i dont have All it involves is losening the bolt on the side of the distributor, and turning it clock wise, until its 20 deg (thats why you need the timing light), then tighten up the bolt
or you could do the dodgy brother mechanic style, and advance it a bit, and take it for a spin, and if it doesn't ping, leave it (not recomended)
Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
I changed the timing on mine last night and holy fark it goes now!
I swear i went to overtake a truck thisarvo and the big gal almost popped a mono
All you have to do is hook up your timing light, losten the one bolt that stops the distributor from moving and start the engine.
adjust the position of the distributor until the mark on the timing belt cover lines up with the 5th mark.
Tighten the bolt and go for a hoon around the block.
Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Morgz85
So changing it to 382ohms will change the fuel/air mix to a more optimal setting? So this will give what, better acceleration? Is that what you find you get?
Yep, better acceleration, better throttle response.
I would like to know if anyone else tries this what they think, so far its worked for me and my bro, i have a VL and my bro has a skyline.
Quote:
A good mod is set your AFM to 382 ohms resistance to give a better fuel mixture.
Pull the loom plug off the AFM, as well as the cover off the round part next to it (use a screw driver and prise it off) grab an ohm meter, put the needles on the two outer pins (eg. 1 and 6) and turn the screw until it reads 382!
what is the equivalent voltage drop across pins 1 and 6 on the AFM at 382 ohms? R u sure u r talking about ohms (ie resistance) rather than voltage?
My multi meterdoesnt wnt to register resistance across 1 and 6 at all, but it will register voltage. Strange, ha. might just have it on the wrong setting maybe.
I was told that they tend to fun pretty good between 2.2-2.6 volts.
ive got mine on 3.6 and it run great. smooth idle, good acceleration
and reasonable fuel ecconomy (about 400 - 450 around town out of 50L
Um yeah took me a couple of attempts to adjust the thing. I found that u had to keep the multi meter needles on the pins while adjusting the screw. so if you're tricky with your fingers or you have someone to help u it can be done fairly easily.
if you can't feel an acceleration or throttle response change than you might notice better fuel economy, good any way you look at it.
I changed mine yesterday to the 382ohms stated. Mine was originaly on 210ohms. I havent noticed much difference apart from acceleration seems smoother, response seems a little quicker maybe but overall acceleration does seem to be slower than before....can someone explain whether it makes the fuel/air mix richer or weaker in changing the air flow meter resistance??
I am not sure about fuel economy as yet, ill get back to you on that at the end of the week. So the only difference i find is smoother acceleration.. :roll:
Quote:
Originally Posted by vl_freak
Whats a digital multimeter worth?
If the resistance is lower does this mean that the AFM thinks theres a little bit less air flowing through?
Cheers
A cheap digital multimeter you can get for $19.95 from Jaycar or **** Smith. If you want a nice decent one pay up to about $60 for one
I am not sure on which way the AFM works with the adjustment screw, i will look it up...
Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
This i getting interesting, as theres a few different results from people trying this AFM mod. Maybe i shouldn't have said anything at all!
morgz are you finding a flat spot in the way your car accelerates?
oh also check the reading again, when i did this to my bro's skyline the first time i found i was 1 ohm out (383) and it did not go well. I reset it, and then it went! 8)
