Hey there, i bought a spare RB30 engine from the wrecker, and it seems that the damn assholes have tried to strip it and have consequently stuffed it.
Upon bringing it home, i decided to check the exhaust ports for any traces of oil and what not. some exhaust studs were missing, others were just holding on.
A total of 4 out of 12 exhaust nuts have broken off, but no two on 1 cylinder.
Question - How do i fix the problem with the exhaust nuts being stuck, when i would like to bolt on the manifold with all nuts available?
I have a spare head, but i do not want to 'crack the engine open' and seperate the head from the engine...
Is it possible to remove these broken off studs, or try to get a decent mounting by drilling them out and re-tapping it, while the head is still connected to the block?
Damn i hate it when **** like this happens!
Any specialized tools that you use at all? What size drill bit do you use and what is the exact technique?
I was thinking of drilling in a hole in the stud, and then screwing in a screw to try and unscrew the stud. Not sure if it will work, but im damn sure to try anything that works.
Would it be worth changing the Plenum side studs as well? Out of the engines that i have worked on, they seem fine, but they always tend to come out with the nut anyway.
I think ill buy some loctite products and bolt it all up nice
Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
Quote:
I was thinking of drilling in a hole in the stud, and then screwing in a screw to try and unscrew the stud.
I read somewhere you can get reverse threaded stuff for jobs like this so the screw you screw in doesn't unwind instead of the thing you want out.
I like the way he worded this...
"common problem have to drill them out i replace my studs every time head comes off to try and avoid this"
as regular as an oil change... hehe.. im just bored. How are you Brendon anyway?
Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
yeah theres a tool u can get. U use a particular drillbit size and drill into the stud. Then u put the drill on reverse and use this reverse threaded tool to drill itself into the stud. Once it bites and hits the bottom of the hole u drilled it'll screw the whole stud out cos its thread is reverse to the stud one..
I haven't done it b4 but there is a name for the tool. just call a good mechanic or recon place. They use them to remove spark plugs too apparently.
i got them from supercheap auto for about five bucks, they come in a set of five(i think). The cheap set (the one i got) doesn't come with a handle so you just use a small spanner and turn it carefully.
There are better tools than easy outs.
I have seen a mechanic I was doing work experience with 9 years ago use these knurled bits which are tapped into the broken off stud after being drilled with a slightly undersized drill bit,coincidently ,it was being used on a VL with snapped manifold studs,they're better than easy outs because they have a lesser tendency to break.
Snapped studs are common on the RB30 engine once the kays get up on them as the manifold & studs gets red hot & the studs weaken,the expansion & contraction adds to this causing the stud to shear under its own tension.
The fix for it apparently as I have heard been done on a Skyline is to replace all the studs & fit extractors to the head.
A total tools outlet may help you with getting the tools.
thanks for diging this up russel
hehe yeah i used an easyout long time ago.... works like a charm, but does leave a BIG MESS, and you should watch it that it doesnt get in the ports.
All good now, new studs and its alright
Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
easy outs will get the broken studs out. they have a L/H twist on the shank and as you turn it it actually tightenes itself into the hole you drilled in the stud while unscrewing the stud. Dont put them in a drill they will probably break. Otherwise you can try and weld a nut onto the stud and try to unscrew it.
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Originally Posted by Boostedcal
4 out of 12 aint bad. I always seem to break 6 of em. :x
lucky you didnt break any last w/end or i would have had to go to the pub while you fixed them. :P
let me know how you go buddy
i have broken the very last one up the very back bottom
F@#$@#$ is all i can say -
fixing it will be a prick - some ppl say itll be pretty easy.
either way - make sure you put some nice new bolts back in -
buy them from holden i believe
cheers-
broken studs are easy to fix, just drill a good center hole, and then up the drill bit size.
The easy out that i used was a little too big for the apppliation i think..... while it was recommened to go for the diameter of the stud, i would have gone the smaller easy out option, simply because it would have been easier to drill a smaller hole to get it out instead of a large hole wiht about 2mm on either side! The bigger hole you make, the bigger chance you have of drilling through the head, and the less leeway you have for errors.
use a **** load of CRC spray on lubricant, keep rags in the ports, so **** doesnt get in them, and you should be fine.
took ages to get it all done, in a ****ed up position, but it was well worth it.
Ide recommened taking the engine out to do this, as doing it while in the car without stuffing something up as a beginner would be a SERIOUS challenege!
Another way I have heard of getting them out is to use an eroder which somehow erodes the stud which is jammed in.
The pain in the VL is that the stud after many years becomes jammed into the alloy head,I have heard alloy heads are a prick for that and a lot of the time you will need fit helicoils into the head as the thread is usually stuffed,we had to do it to mine.
Be careful if redrilling & helicoiling the head,I pulled an RB30 down where the stud was not fitted straight and it dug into the head gasket.