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Water Injection?

Started by bluvlt · 27 June 2002 · 19 replies

Preserved from CalaisTurbo. Original authors and dates are shown; archived members are not current Holdcom accounts.

bluvltArchived member

27-06-02, 17:45 GMT+10#1

Has anyone tried putting water injection or water/methanol injection on there vl turbos. I used to have it on my N/A VL and it worked wonders (running 30+ degrees timing and no pinging) I've been warned off putting it on a turbo car because it apparently more or less sandblasts the exhaust turbine and results in failure If anyone has tried it what sort of figures were you getting with it on (horsepower, boost level, ignition advance etc?) Thanx Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

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SinArchived member

27-06-02, 18:22 GMT+10#2

dont do it unless u got some money for a new turbo after a little while. the water bends the turbo splines into a non efficient shape and makes the turbo run worse and produce less boost. spend ur money on an intercooler..........

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bluvltArchived member

28-06-02, 15:38 GMT+10#3

I've already got an intercooler, thanks for the warning. Dont think I'll try it

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PRO VLArchived member

02-07-02, 17:35 GMT+10#4

Yeah its not the exhaust turbine it hurts its the compressor turbine and you may as well throw a hand full of sand infront of it cause thats what it will look like in no time. You just cant efficiently meter the drops of water. Mike Vine swears by it though but a mate had his VL done there and within 2 months the front wheel was totaled.

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OVL087Archived member

02-07-02, 17:48 GMT+10#5

as stated before , the water hitting the comp wheel , which is spinning at ****loads of rpm , acts like an abrasive and will ruin the wheel fairly quickly. mike vine has a fairly good method for his water setup , maybe it was different to what your mate had. what car was it if you dont mind me asking pro vl?

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PRO VLArchived member

02-07-02, 18:27 GMT+10#6

A white VL calais from waterford/loganlea

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turbolukeArchived member

05-07-02, 02:17 GMT+10#7

if you are concerned about compressor damage pressurised water injection can be used after the turbo (eg crossover pipe), may not be as effective but decent gains should be able to be made

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proph3cyArchived member

05-07-02, 17:30 GMT+10#8

how can you add water injection to the VL n/a???? Neva heard of it before........

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turbolukeArchived member

05-07-02, 22:16 GMT+10#9

with a water bottle and a pump, water is very good and preventing preignition

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B15HOPArchived member

28-09-03, 21:59 GMT+10#10

I would assume that you would need to use water injection after the turbo just because of the heat difference?

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NinetySixArchived member

29-09-03, 07:15 GMT+10#11

Ask the carby turbo boys what they think of water injection, they love it. specially if its half methanol half water the strata turbo kits for old 202's used water injection without problems.. and i would also agree on putting it after the turbo Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

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hornetArchived member

29-09-03, 14:16 GMT+10#12

Where would you get a spray tip from?

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giantbrandonArchived member

29-09-03, 15:20 GMT+10#13

if you buy the right kit and use after the turbo they are realy good its all the home made jobs that stuff up and always put the resivour of water below the injector as the syfine (spelling) affect could cause a hydraulic lock up of the engine

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dceptvArchived member

30-09-03, 00:10 GMT+10#14

Definitely do the after turbo job if u want water injection.. before turbo yukk!

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OldGoldArchived member

30-09-03, 02:25 GMT+10#15

Interesting in that I never heard of this prob when I was looking up draw-thru carby setups... surely fuel would have the same effect on the compressor blades?

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B15HOPArchived member

30-09-03, 03:42 GMT+10#16

I have heard that the Aquamist with 12 degrees more spark advance gives a good torque increase through the rev range. It will stop detonation and absorb heat, allowing fuel to burn longer inside the cylinder making the engine more efficient. The only side effects are in lowering the life of your exhaust. Water injection really intrigues me, it also acts as a steam cleaner for your engine keeping the cylinders cleaner. Also after reading up on LPG conversions, something which also intrigues me, I realised that good power gains can be made. This author states that you can get the same power out of a strait LPG conversion if you change the CR to 12:1 and cam/ignition timing to match. Even though the engine runs cleaner, LPG creates soo much heat that high levels of NO^x are created (harmful emissions). And power is lost through heat generated. My theory is that fine water spray induction would effectively solve this heat problem and give a torque increase to boot. The suppression of detonation and high octane level of LPG would also allow for some kind of light forced induction maybe even giving more of a power increase! Quote from: www.aquamist.co.uk/dc/reference/part4.html (http://www.aquamist.co.uk/dc/reference/part4.html) ��Methanol��Ethanol�� Unleaded Gasoline RON (low temp for cruising)��106�� 107�� 92 to 98 MON (high temp for racing)��92��89�� 80 to 90 Heat of Vaporisation (MJ/kg)�� 1.154��0.913��0.3044 Net Heating Value (MJ/kg)�� 19.95��26.68��42 to 44 Vapour Pressure @ 38C (kPa)�� 31.9��16.0��48 to 108 Flame Temperature (C)�� 1870��1920��2030 Stoichiometric Flame Spd. ( m/s )��0.43��?��0.34 Minimum Ignition Energy ( mJ )��0.14��?��0.29 Lower Flammable Limit ( vol% )��6.7��3.3��1.3 Upper Flammable Limit ( vol% )��36.0��19.0��7 .1 Auto Ignition Temperature (C)��460��360��2 60 to 460 Flash Point (C)��11��13�� -43 to �39 �LPG (Liquefied Petroleum Gas) is predominantly propane with iso-butane and n-butane. It has one major advantage over Compressed natural Gas (CNG), the tanks do not have to be high pressure, and the fuel is stored as a liquid. The fuel offers most of the environmental benefits of CNG, including high octane.� ��Methane��Propane�� Iso-octane RON��120�� 112��100 MON��120�� 97��100 Heat of Vaporisation (MJ/kg)��0.5094��0.4253�� 0.2712 Net Heating Value (MJ/kg)��50.0��46.2�� 44.2 Vapour Pressure @ 38C (kPa)��11. 8 Flame Temperature (C)��1950��1925�� 1980 Stoich. Flame Speed. (m/s)�� 0.45��0.45��0.31 Minimum Ignition Energy (mJ)�� 0.30��0.26�� Lower Flammable Limit (vol%)�� 5.0��2.1��0.95 Upper Flammable Limit (vol%)�� 15.0��9.5��6.0 Autoignition Temperature (C)�� 540 to 630�� 450�� 415 Very interesting read if you have the time to read the whole thing, makes me want to read his whole book! Anyway hope this fires re starts an interesting thread Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

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B15HOPArchived member

30-09-03, 03:44 GMT+10#17

OLDGold: Maybe it has something to do with the impurities in tap water that cause this problem?

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OldGoldArchived member

30-09-03, 05:37 GMT+10#18

I thought it was more to do with the impact of the water molecules at high velocity for sustained periods of time that screwed em... surely common sense would dictate that if you were going to squirt water into your engine you'd use distilled water...?

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DegreeArchived member

30-09-03, 13:04 GMT+10#19

Oldgold: I know of a few ppl running water setups and they just use tap water with no problems. They also have them running before the turbo, and havent had any probs with their front wheels - maybe PRO VL it was how it was setup?

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B15HOPArchived member

30-09-03, 17:41 GMT+10#20

Ok I found out why, you need fine water droplets for starters. If this is not the case then say goodbye to the turbo. The Aquamist uses fine water droplets for this reason, and also in order not to drown the fuel/air mix in the cylinder. Squirting water strait onto the turbo would create a fine mist also but probably destroy the turbo very fast especially if it spins at 60,000 rpm. As for distilled water, I guess it would still be cost effective, although the hassel of buying distilled water and filling the tank would be a pain. This would be especially true if this was done everytime you went to buy petrol. So at this point I was assuming the use of tap water, since it is still relatively clean. Maybe people who have water injection can clarify?

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