Does any one else have gauge problems? My Speedo has stopped. My Oil pressure Gauge flicks from side to side all the time and my fuel gauge some times drops down to empty then after a while goes back to normal. Has anyone else ever had these problems? Also can I please have some advice in converting my open wheeler diff to an LSD.....

it sounds to me like an electrical problem in ur dash, loose connections may have to be soldered, or just perhaps cleaned. if you dont know what your doing, ring up a few auto elec places explain ur problem and go from there. with ur fuel guage, it cld either be loose wiring, or the sender is a bit on the **** side, mine does it often also

Yep, my oil gauge sits above full, never moves and my fuel guage says ive got a full tank no matter what ive got in it

On the diff. I changed mine to an ls about 12 months ago. Cost me ~$650 for new ls, bearings and labour to rebuild it (if I remember rightly). Make sure you got 28 spline axles (not 25/26) as they are rare and very expensive!

my oil pressure gauge bounces around emulating the tacho, the fuel gauge used to get stuck on empty sometimes but it fixed itself (still not super accurate tho) dunno what u would do to fix it, i just put up with it

Going to the local VDO guy once I bet back from Brisbane. He should know how to fix the speedo. As for the oil gauge I have found out that its the sensor that goes into the side of the motor. And the fuel gauge.... well I have no idea. Can I have some more advice on diffs please cause mine's currently an open wheeler and it gives me the ****s. Can a new center just be put in or get a whole new axel (as I already have a discs on the rear)? I know that turbo dif centers are being harder to find.... are there many diff centers out there that will fit? I would like around a 3.7:1 ratio too. Thanks for your help..... Sir Calais

i hate faulty guages! oil pressure guage read like it is whizzing its tits off with sudden movements. my fuel guage is totally inaccurate. and my odometer and tripmeter have stoppped dead. plus the clock (which is bloody handy) does not work. and now i have blown a bulb. sorry for the bitchn

man you sound like your in the same boat as me!! I even had to order new tail lights cause everytime it rained it filled up with water!! So there goes $120 for qenuine Holedn Calais Lights.... fu*king rip off hey.......

vl v8 was the same diff as the vlt i'm 99% sure. the ls centre goes straight in using your existing axles. you're better off buying a brand new ls than a second handy from a wrecker thats already flogged out! get new bearings while its apart.

The only differance between the vl V8 diff and the vl turbo diff is the ratio. the v8 is a 3.08 and the turbo is a 3.45. Both have 28 spline axles. The NA diff has 3.45 ratio but only 25 spline axles. To change to a lsd will set you back around $750 for the carrier, thats fitted. Cheers

hey sir calais, try drilling little holes in the bottom of your lights so when they fill up with water, it drains straight out. saves you lots of bulbs and a few sets of lights Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

thanks for your adivce. I would do it but I'm currently working away from home and by the time I get back my new tail lights should have arrived. i'm more concerned about my fuel gauge now. Apparently fuel pumps that pump a lot of air can cause air bubbles it your tank and can some times cause this if you fill you car right up to the neck. I'm still looking into this one.

SirCalais - Im pretty sure i know how to fix your fuel gauge probs.. I used to have the same pain in the ass prob, it would goo down then up, and sumtimes if ya bashed da dashboard it would come back to life. I tried different gaugges from diff dash's with the same effect. I then pulled my dash out and disconnected everything from it so you can get to the back of it. On the PCB side, look for where the fuel gauge tracks for the 2 brass connector of the gauge, and follow them back to the spot on the PCB where it connects to one of them main plugs for the dash. I heated up the solder joints there with fresh solder, and this fixed it. Never done it since. Typical case of dry solder joints. U guys with other guage probs, if ya sure its not sensors, try the solder re-dab method while ya got the dash out anyway. Hope this helps. Cheers 8O

thanks a heap VL grunt I'll try that.

No worries dude, it worked 100% for me, that fuel gauge was pissing me off hardcore, it went down once cause it was having a spazz, and i didnt take any notice when it read empty and i ran outa juice on ****ing heathcote road at night, and sydney dudes would know how much of a c@$t that is hehe Ive done it to 2 other mates with VL's (cause they didnt even know what a soldering iron was) and it fixed them too. Some original photos have not been recovered yet.